Blead Brake Fluid, PERSISTANT SOFT PEDAL

MikesCobra

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Hey guys,
I blead my brakes the other night proper sequence RR, LR, FR, FL, and replaced the fluid with ATE super blue. I repeated this process 4 times and the pedal on the car travels "spongey" a 1/4th to 1/2 the way before I feel the pedal catch and firm up and braking is activated. I am looking to achieve a rock hard pedal from the full throw.

Could this issue be air in the lines?, the brake pedal rod needing adjusting? anything to do with the master cylinder or booster?

Super frustrated, nothing seems to go smoothly with this cobra. :dw:
 

blkGT500nCA

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Probably not bled properly. Make sure you keep the reservoir full of fluid. I still do it the old school way too, but one of those fancy brake bleeders is probably the way to go. Maybe NAPA rents them?
 

funtruck

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I faced this issue a couple months ago. I was about to take the car to the dealer and let them bleed the brakes. Instead I saved some $$$ and bought the Motive Power Bleeder and bled the brakes properly. Pedal firmed right up after that. Good Luck.
 

Tractionless1

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If you want rock hard pedal for full throw, get ATE Super Blue, or yellow. They are the same fluid just different colors for when you switch to make sure all the previous old fluid is gone.
 

MikesCobra

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If you want rock hard pedal for full throw, get ATE Super Blue, or yellow. They are the same fluid just different colors for when you switch to make sure all the previous old fluid is gone.

Read the original post, the super blue is what I put in the car.
 

Mystic03

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Not sure I am familiar how to do that? I took the cap off, and started bleeding each corner, while making sure not to let the brake fluid tank go empty... did I forget something?

just like the calipers but do it at the primary and secondary on the MC
 

oldmodman

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Was the pedal soft before you bled the system?

If it was hard before and is soft after being bled you got air into the abs module.

Unfortunately to easily get the air out of the abs you need the dealer's computer to command that all the abs valve actuate during the bleeding procedure.

I had a car that was giving me fits trying to bleed the abs (had to replace the master cylinder and air got in the lines and was trapped in the abs).

My fix was to go out into a parking lot on a weekend while the plants were being watered and stand on the brakes making the abs valves pulse.
Then bled a little fluid from all four corners.
Repeated this monkey show four times and ended up with a nice hard brake pedal.

It was a colossal pain in the ass.
 

Tractionless1

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Read the original post, the super blue is what I put in the car.

I did at about 3:40a while working nights, missed it.

Good start, pull the fluid to the calipers with a vac. starting with the farthest caliper from the master working toward the closest. Manually bleed in the same order. I have about 1/2" brake pedal travel max doing the above.
 

nextime

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I just did this on a friends car. I had to bleed the master cylinder first then RR LR RF LF and we got a rock hard pedal.

I also used Castrol GTLMA fluid.

0000-Castrol-GT-LMA-Brake-Fluid---.jpg
 

ac427cobra

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The ATE Super Blue fluid has been recalled. However I would not let that alarm you. It's a coloring thing.

If you got ANY air at all into your braking system it most likely ended up in your ABS. You can bleed your brakes until the cows come home and until that air is removed from the ABS you'll still have a soft pedal. You'll have to get your car on wet pavement or gravel road to engage the ABS to remove that air from it. Or a Ford Dealer can bleed the brakes and cycle the ABS to remove the air.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
 

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