A little dab of die electric grease on the bolt and under the ground would definitely be fine.
Bob's Auto Sports' - New Oil/Air Separator "Catch Can"
- Thread starter UnleashedBeast
- Start date
Very common misunderstanding.. I think you will be surprised if you do a search and some research on [ame="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease"]Dielectric grease [/ame]
Pretty sure you'll find it's not what you think it is... nor should it be used for what your just recommended
That OEM ground strap is attached to a painted surface with a steel fastener.. It is not making conductivity from the bottom face touching the sheet metal.. It’s path is from the top surface, to the fastener, through that screw into the sheet metal where the threads touch. As such, placing the terminal on top of the aluminum is not going to change that dynamic in any way.. Terminal, meeting screw, , screwed into sheet metal,, On top or under aluminum bracket makes no difference.
If not convinced just because some guy on the internet said so.. take your Digital VOM, and check impedance in the stock location (ground strap terminal to another grounded fastener, or known good ground), and after placing the ground strap on top of the bracket , you’ll see no real change.
Bottom line, as long as the connection remains tight, ground strap on top or under the bracket makes no different in performance,, If look is an issue with it on top, modify the wire or harness.. Or, drill a new hole, in a location the OEM ground strap can reach.
And of course, in order for a MOD to effect the warranty, it has to be related to and or have directly caused the failed, warranted part in question. .. Removing some tape from the harness to gain an inch of slack in that wire is not likely to be attributable to any warranty issue.
Learn something new everyday. :beer: I always assumed it promoted conducting electricity.
And Sir I applaud you for taking that comment as it was intended… just one enthusiast offering something to another.
Just don’t get me started on anaerobic thread lock or Brake fluids. .. that will seriously derail this thread for several pages...
Back on topic.. just ordered plumbing for my install, will order the catch can in a few days and then have to wait till I get home from Afghanistan to instill it..
I’ll stop disrupting this thread, and start my own then. Thanks to the OP for starting this one, as it was what gave me the idea.. and to the creator of the part..., for, well the part.
E.Marquez
Great info above!! And anyone that wants to do their own lines with the Earl parts that E.Marquez listed in post 91, they are all available on summitracing.com I can sell the cans without fittings and lines too, just shoot me an email or PM.
Good call. The powder coating won't fade and will last a hell of a lot longer plus it is significantly more durable. I'm going to send off two last parts that are on my car to be powdercoated since they came anodized.
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PM on the way:banana:
This is how I went
I'll have 7 feet of extra hose, and that made it a pricier MOD, but oh well..
Thanks for the info!
Okay fellas. Lets recap...I had the JLTs installed on both sides, this is a 2012 and after talking with Van may not be as prone to blowby. The drivers side was bone dry after 5000 miles. Not even a hint of oil in the can or the lines - expected. On the passenger side I was expecting something in the can. Actually, I was expecting about 1-2 tsp to be honest. What I got was maybe 4 drops and I could get some out of the hose that connected to the blower. I was not happy so I ordered the Bob's (I mean Steve, no wait Bob, no Steve:lol and installed it based on Beast's comments...
Here is what I got after 500 miles from the passenger side. Better than the JLT but still not as much as Beast posted from 250 miles. My oil also looks a lot darker...any body help with that please...oil only has 1500 miles and it is all highway.
As you can see it is about 1/4 tsp or about 8 drops. Double the JLT in 1/10 the time. I will post again after 1000 miles.:coolman:
and installed it based on Beast's comments...Here is what I got after 500 miles from the passenger side. Better than the JLT but still not as much as Beast posted from 250 miles. My oil also looks a lot darker...any body help with that please...oil only has 1500 miles and it is all highway.
As you can see it is about 1/4 tsp or about 8 drops. Double the JLT in 1/10 the time. I will post again after 1000 miles.:coolman:
I ordered the Bob's (I mean Steve, no wait Bob, no Steve:lol
I feel the same way at times. :lol:
No worries about dark oil, that means it's doing the job removing contaminants from your engine. Dark oil means it's cleaning.
The spray on liners in your engine probably has a much better seal than my iron block. That would mean less blow by, as Van is suggesting. Just a hypothesis in my head. No facts to support it.
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Beast, a question..
In one thread you theorized, the short attachment hose of the JLT, was a possible cause to the lack of oil that was coming out of suspension and being collected (flow not slowing down is what I think you said, smaller ID and short hose)
You then stated the longer and larger hose design of the BOB's filter attachment was advantageous to allow the air flow to slow down (I believe you are correct)and it WAS much longer in your first install using the 90 deg lower fitting. So your install matched your reasoning.
Then you went to the 45 deg fitting and the hose length decreased significantly. .. Has your hypothesis changed, or ??? you still feel the 5/8 vs 1/2 ID plus a little extra hose length will meet the needs?
In one thread you theorized, the short attachment hose of the JLT, was a possible cause to the lack of oil that was coming out of suspension and being collected (flow not slowing down is what I think you said, smaller ID and short hose)
You then stated the longer and larger hose design of the BOB's filter attachment was advantageous to allow the air flow to slow down (I believe you are correct)and it WAS much longer in your first install using the 90 deg lower fitting. So your install matched your reasoning.
Then you went to the 45 deg fitting and the hose length decreased significantly. .. Has your hypothesis changed, or ??? you still feel the 5/8 vs 1/2 ID plus a little extra hose length will meet the needs?
You thought about that too huh, lol
I decided to monitor oil collection after the change, so far...no change. Seems the larger I.D. hose is sufficient, even with the shorter run using the 45* fitting instead of the 90*. IIRC, I had to remove 6" to 8" of hose when I swapped fittings. The system is still working at the same efficiency, and worth the change. Cosmetically, it's far better with the 45*.
Good deal... well I ordered my bare bones Separator this weekend, the parts from summit shipped, and i should be in Kyrgyzstan on or about the 26th headed home.. I have a ton of parts waiting on me, S197 GT, GT500, and a bike I decided to build by remote control while gone this time only my lead Tech got all growed up, went out and found himself a real job... Happy for my son, sad I lost my wrenching partner.
The up side is, I have weeks of building to look forward to. :lol: and the GT500 gets first Roll Away dibs on shop time.
I'll start a thread on my install and collection results. This is a daily driver for us, so miles will rack up pretty fast. Mix of stop and go and 70-80 Highway. 44~60 miles daily... if just going to work
FYI, we have a drivers side coming to market soon due to lots of customer demand. Same cost, just need to machine up brackets and get them powder coated. Brushed finish is available currently, or I can paint it in autograde paint to match for the time being (black). Probably about a month before the powdercoat ones are ready to go.
It clears my aftermarket hood struts, and I have a felt washer in the kit so it won't scratch anything in case you take it off at some point.
Anyways, here are some pictures.
It clears my aftermarket hood struts, and I have a felt washer in the kit so it won't scratch anything in case you take it off at some point.
Anyways, here are some pictures.
FYI, we have a drivers side coming to market soon due to lots of customer demand. Same cost, just need to machine up brackets and get them powder coated. Brushed finish is available currently, or I can paint it in autograde paint to match for the time being (black). Probably about a month before the powdercoat ones are ready to go.
It clears my aftermarket hood struts, and I have a felt washer in the kit so it won't scratch anything in case you take it off at some point.
Anyways, here are some pictures.
Good choice of location on the 2010+ cars, however, this may not work on 2007-2009 models. There is some A/C system gear in that corner on the 07-09 models.
Question about the ground on top or bottom...I left the ground on the bottom of the bracket with the washers installed. It is possible that the ground was not "strong" enough and would cause a main fuse to blow? On my way to work this morning the electric steering went out and the AdvanceTrac went out at the same time...It is at the dealership right now, but I am afraid that this "mod" could result in me paying for everything...
Thanks for any inputs (again, this is 2012 with 2 ground straps and i used ground closest to the front of the car).
Thanks for any inputs (again, this is 2012 with 2 ground straps and i used ground closest to the front of the car).
No way, if that bolt is tight, you had a solid ground. Did you check to see if it was tight before you took it in?
Fuses are normally due to excessive current draw. I have seen poor grounds cause issues before.
Fuses are normally due to excessive current draw. I have seen poor grounds cause issues before.
Each major system and subsystem will have multiple ground paths,, even in the unlikely event you had zero connectivity in that ground wire, the chances are very, very small it would cause a failure like you had.
Second, your ground path was impacted if I understand how you installed the catch can, when you get the car back I recommend a change.
If you stick with the ground strap UNDER the bracket: Strip the paint / powder coat from the bracket so it makes metal to metal contact …remove a small amount of paint on the body where the ground strap makes contact.. 2mm around the screw hole will be fine. Assemble it.. BODY>GROUND STRAP>BRACKET> WASHER>FASTENER.
If you place the ground strap on top of the bracket:
You do not need to remove any paint or powder coat from the body or bracket. Ground path is then going from the body, to threaded fastener, to direct contact with the ground strap.
Lastly, If you do not own a Volt Ohm Meter (VOM), please go buy one.. even a cheap one from Sears, $19 or less on sale gets you a decent model… and check the resistance between the ground strap and known good ground (at the battery terminal, or a direct grounded location from there)
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^^Great info Erik!
Nuclear : Sorry to hear about your problem and I hope it didn't stem from the catch can. I have always had mine on top and have the instructions to have it on top and no problem. But being that you already put 500+ miles on without issues, I hope it is something else!! Keep us posted and hope it goes smoothly and unrelated (and is free via warranty work!!).
Nuclear : Sorry to hear about your problem and I hope it didn't stem from the catch can. I have always had mine on top and have the instructions to have it on top and no problem. But being that you already put 500+ miles on without issues, I hope it is something else!! Keep us posted and hope it goes smoothly and unrelated (and is free via warranty work!!).
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