Changing MT-82 Tranny Fluid

[ALLKHEINZ]

Redline MTL for me...first thing i did with 500 miles on the car...immediate difference, very happy!

 

[bob450]

i just change my oil for rp syncromesh i havent try again but will give you update soon.
my getrag is a brand new one install by the dealer under warranty. when i change ford fluid i notice a silver flake shinning throught oil does your original oil have same color?? or is it grinding inside :burn:??

thank for reply:beer:

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Metal flakes from the OEM MT-82 fill seems to be a common occurrence.

 

[pohnjarker]

is there a "how to" change the transmission fluid??

i can do the oil but have never done the transmission...also, whats with the pump some people are talking about??

 

[yellowrubiu]

is there a "how to" change the transmission fluid??

i can do the oil but have never done the transmission...also, whats with the pump some people are talking about??

It is pretty straight forward. Ideally you want to do it on a lift or with the car level on jack stands. As you may have noticed on this thread some of us with ramps have had mixed results with being able to get all the fluid in due to the angle on the ramps - see my post above.

• Drive the car around for 5 minutes to warm things up and make it easier for the oil to drain.
• Make sure you can loosen the fill plug before draining it. You'll need an 8mm hex wrench for the fill and drain plugs.
• You will not be able to use a torque wrench to torque the fill plug back to spec (35 Nm) because of the limited space so take note of the marking on the fill plug and simply tighten it back to the same position after getting the new fluid in.
• Open the drain plug and let it drain until oil stops dripping - some people like to save the factory oil in case they need to bring it back to the dealer for warranty work.
• Install the drain plug back and torque it to 35 Nm.
• You can use a pump like the one below from your local auto parts store or Wally World or the type that screws onto the quarts to pump 2.7 quarts of the fluid back in. Be sure to compensate for anything that the pump may not suck out from the quarts or whatever remains in the suction tubes so you don't put in less than the 2.7 quarts back in.
• Screw the fill plug back on and go for a test drive.
• Take another peak under the car to make sure nothing is dripping and you're done.

 

[pohnjarker]

^^ Thanks, once i saw a picture of where the fill and drain plugs were, along with your post, it looks very easy.

 

[yellowrubiu]

Here is a good picture of the markings on that fill plug... you can also get an idea on how much room you have to work with. You can see the insulation and just about see the wall of the transmission tunnel at the top of the picture.

 

[trumpet]

^^ Thanks, once i saw a picture of where the fill and drain plugs were, along with your post, it looks very easy.

Do you have a link to the picture of the fill and drain plugs. I am thinking about doing this soon.

Thanks

 

[JAA55]

I spoke to a chemical engineer with RP and he told me 75w90 was the way to go. That was at 700 miles when I installed my whipple. At 4000 more miles of use its shifting effortlessly. He said if you drive your car on extremely cold days you might notice some notchy shifts until it warms up....mine is a summer driver. I've never had an issue even on cool fall nights.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

 

[corruptor]

To add my experience, I swapped out the factory QS within the first 1,000 miles to Redline MTL. I have always had the 1->2 "nibble" when cold, which is most likely the synchro not being up to the task until the tranny is warmed up.

Drove with the MTL for about 3,500 miles. Still had the nibble, but gear changes were smoother and it warmed up a lot faster. For what it's worth, I live in an area where the temps are 50-60 in the winter, and 60-70 in the summer - never really gets super cold or super hot.

After installing the MGW short shifter, I noticed the tranny whine more especially once the tranny warmed up. I also noticed gear changes were clunkier; it felt like I was running into some sort of resistance halfway through the gear change. I'm not a fan of gear whine and while I don't know if it causes any excessive wear, I came to the conclusion that I should look for a more suitable stock fluid replacement - especially since Redline doesn't necessarily recommend the MTL for our tranny.

After reading a few posts from some people I consider reliable, I decided to swap out the Redline MTL for BG Synchroshift II. So far, I've put about 200 miles on the BG SS II and I have noticed a slight decrease in tranny whine after it's warmed up. Shifts are definitely smoother as well. The MGW shifter now finally feels good, with more effort than stock, but not any extra notchiness than stock. I still get the 1->2 nibble but I have become accustomed to skipping 2nd altogether while the tranny is cold.

Overall, I like the BG SS II, especially over MTL or the stock fill. Have not tried Amsoil MTG or Royal Purple, but the viscosity on those two are more similar to stock and would likely take longer to warm up.

 

[BADBOSS]

I have the same nibble when shifting to 4th, only at above 4000 rpm. i have switched to MTL and it is better but never goes away. I am always hesitant to shift hard into 4th. Has anyone taken theirs into the dealer to fix? What was the outcome?

 

[2012Yote]

There is a report floating around the web somewhere with some strenuous testing done with all the leading oil manufacturers.

I don't remember how all of them came out but do remember Amsoil was #1 and Mobil 1 was #2. I put the Mobil 1 in mine around 1000 Miles and shifting is as smooth as butter! I would have went with the Amsoil but due to availability at the time I went with Mobil.