Looks Good, I like.Here are some pics of how I did my NX HO kit. I made a custom bracket and ordered custom length lines for a clean install. Given the nitrous line being longer than the fuel line, the lean spike(even though it's not a concern anyway) is all but gone.
Coyote High Output Plate System
- Thread starter NitrousExpress
- Start date
the solinoid mounting brackets are garbage for the gt. the nitrous side fits half way decent. the fuel side is shit. i had to bend it at an angle to squeeze it between the metal fuel line,and it just looks like garbage. After that I put it on hold, and also found out that the kit DID NOT come with a plug for the purge side of the fuel or nitrous solinoid. . . Garrett, is this something you can help with?? I couldnt get the fuel adapter off, so now im stuck leaving the stang sit in the garage with a half hooked up system. I used the plug from the bottle hardware (still needed for the bottle when i fill it) to try and get my stang on the road. still had massive fuel leaks so i took it back out, cleaned all the connections, re-did the red locktite included with the accessory pack, and am letting it sit overnight before trying to start it again. Next weekend i am going to fab up my own mounting brackets to have the solinoids lay down instead of standing up. hoping to get the engine cover to go back on too... though it might be out of the question
Spent 12 hours installing this yesterday myself and hopefully will finish up today...so much electrical wiring to be done with hardly any good instructions of what goes where. Mainly how to wire in both TPS and MDS RPM switch in together. I also had two gauges to wire in as well (wideband and NOS) on pilliar, FPSS and bottle heater wiring. So that adds on to the installation time. My fuel solenoid was leaking like crazy too, so will be buying some fuel teflon to put on the threads to stop the leak hopefully. I didn't know what the two tubes of liquid were for at all, it would have been nice to have said what they were along with some installation instructions for this kit.
There is a lot of wires to loom up and i have my solenoids standing vertically on each side of the manifold (NX facing out). Like you said the fuel solenoid was a pain in the ass and so its next to the fuel line so that side is raised maybe an half inch higher than the N02 solenoid. It still does not look bad though.
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^ my buddy that was gonna help with the install agreed with me that it looked bad. who wants to pop their hood and have anything less than stellar work to show off. but, i redid all the connections with the red liquid they included, and it solved most the leak, it was leaking from the fitting that came installed in the noid, so i backed that sucker out and added the rest of the red liquid. (my actual kit did not come with the liquid, i used it from the accessory pack...) Did yours come with the plug for the purge ports?? mine did not. 
. also, any tips you have for the wiring would be greatly appreciated. also, how did you access the bolts for the bottle?
As you have figured out, we didnt get too far into the install, he had to go pick up his wife, and he had a tire blow out on our way from work to the garage, so we had a much later start and a much earlier cut off time than anticipated. i drilled the holes for the bottle tonight, but cant access to bolt it in untill i drill from the underside too. long story short, not much of anything got done.
. also, any tips you have for the wiring would be greatly appreciated. also, how did you access the bolts for the bottle? As you have figured out, we didnt get too far into the install, he had to go pick up his wife, and he had a tire blow out on our way from work to the garage, so we had a much later start and a much earlier cut off time than anticipated. i drilled the holes for the bottle tonight, but cant access to bolt it in untill i drill from the underside too. long story short, not much of anything got done.
Well we didn't finish due to the WOT Switch not working properly. Going to start again tuesday with help from a friend that is a certified electrician lol. The light on it stays green no matter what you do, hold the button in, push pedal to the floor, turn it off and back on. The instructions say to hold the button in 3 seconds for it to flash and that to does not even work. I am calling Steve at BBR tomorrow to see if he has any idea. Mainly i want a diagram of how the WOT, FPSS, and Window switch get integrated together in a wiring diagram. They have a wiring diagram for each instead of a collaborated one of all 3 together.
The fuel Teflon i used finally worked...no more leaks for me either. Mine did come with a plug for the purge ports. I did not use the bolts for mounting the bottle brackets in the trunk. I used self tapping screws to eliminate having to go under the car, drill in and be done with it. Its a nice clean install over the carpet in the trunk, left corner of trunk.
But to say the least, this has been a nightmare of an install. Very aggravating with minimal instruction.
The fuel Teflon i used finally worked...no more leaks for me either. Mine did come with a plug for the purge ports. I did not use the bolts for mounting the bottle brackets in the trunk. I used self tapping screws to eliminate having to go under the car, drill in and be done with it. Its a nice clean install over the carpet in the trunk, left corner of trunk.
But to say the least, this has been a nightmare of an install. Very aggravating with minimal instruction.
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Wiring up a nitrous kit is pretty easy. There are a lot of resources on the internet or you can call up NX for help.
If you can't wire up a standard SPDT relay though, you might need to have the kit professionally installed as that is the "hardest" part.
The short version is the solenoids need power and ground to open, thats it. The manner in which they receive the power and ground will be determined by how you wire up the kit.
The relay is a 4 post 30amp SPDT relay and it needs 12v constant power(from the battery) and a good ground. It also needs a trigger source (wot switch) and an output which is usually wired up to one side of the solenoids. That completes the relay side of the install. The solenoids are generally grounded to a good ground OR they ground could be run through a window switch. The window switch basically interrupts the ground for the solenoids and completes the circuit when the 'window' is met.
I prefer the standard WOT micro switch and I have mine attached to the gas pedal. That trigger is what prevents the kit from firing once you hit the master arm switch.
If you want to run a fuel pressure safety switch or something like that, you can interrupt the ground for the relay and run that to the switch such that if the fuel pressure drops below the preset amount, the relay will lose its ground and the kit won't fire.
Those are the basics. Hopefully it gives you a little insight into how it should be wired up.
You can also check out the Nitrous Express website as it contains a lot of different instructions for how to wire up different kits. The EFI Stage 1 has the very basic of nitrous setups for reference.
If you can't wire up a standard SPDT relay though, you might need to have the kit professionally installed as that is the "hardest" part.
The short version is the solenoids need power and ground to open, thats it. The manner in which they receive the power and ground will be determined by how you wire up the kit.
The relay is a 4 post 30amp SPDT relay and it needs 12v constant power(from the battery) and a good ground. It also needs a trigger source (wot switch) and an output which is usually wired up to one side of the solenoids. That completes the relay side of the install. The solenoids are generally grounded to a good ground OR they ground could be run through a window switch. The window switch basically interrupts the ground for the solenoids and completes the circuit when the 'window' is met.
I prefer the standard WOT micro switch and I have mine attached to the gas pedal. That trigger is what prevents the kit from firing once you hit the master arm switch.
If you want to run a fuel pressure safety switch or something like that, you can interrupt the ground for the relay and run that to the switch such that if the fuel pressure drops below the preset amount, the relay will lose its ground and the kit won't fire.
Those are the basics. Hopefully it gives you a little insight into how it should be wired up.
You can also check out the Nitrous Express website as it contains a lot of different instructions for how to wire up different kits. The EFI Stage 1 has the very basic of nitrous setups for reference.
Any ideas though of what would cause the WOT switch to remain with a green light on at all times? It seems it will not let us program it. It is tapped into the brown wire on the TSP. Also we tapped into the purple wire on one of the coil wires for the Window Switch. From research seemed like the one mentioned over and over.
The relays have power to the battery and each one is grounded. Also yes going off of NX instructions it is easy because like i mentioned, they just show how each individual component is hooked up but not how they all work together. (WOT with RPM with FPSS) :shrug:
The relays have power to the battery and each one is grounded. Also yes going off of NX instructions it is easy because like i mentioned, they just show how each individual component is hooked up but not how they all work together. (WOT with RPM with FPSS) :shrug:
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I was thinking i shoudl have used self tapping screws after i drilled the holes. Think i will pick some up and move the bottle slightly forward of the already drilled holes. I will have to see if i can find some grommets to fill those holes with. haha Going out to sea for the week so hopefuly when i get back i can wire mine up. Thank god the fuel leak got fixed today!
Both of you that are having issues, call me, and we will get you both fixed up. I am sorry if you are having trouble with the instructions, we try to make them as simple as possible. Give me a ring at 940-767-7694.
-Garrett
-Garrett
Very well said and what I would have posted too.
Likewise!
Well i called today and think maybe i got it squared away with other TPS instructions. I will try tomorrow to see if this works. The instructions for the TPS i had was this:
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/oldwebdocs/instructions/tps_autolearn.pdf
Today i was told i am supposed to hold the program button on the WOT switch before powering on the arming switch, which was not stated in the instructions i had originally. Therefore i was provided with these today:
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/oldwebdocs/instructions/newtps.pdf
What we were doing according to the first set of instructions i mentioned, was turning the key on arming the switch (WOT Green LED constant on) then holding the button down for program mode, but it always stayed green.
We will now try like the new instructions sent to us stating to press and hold button after key turn and before arming switch then arming while holding. Hopefully this corrects it as i believe all the wiring is correct.
Also the new instructions say connect to ECU wire instead of the old stating TPS wire (brown). Is that also correct or will it matter if i leave it tapped into the brown TPS wire still?
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Excuse the dirty engine bay as i intend to clean it soon for better pics. But finally got it done. The wiring was correct all along except for the wrong tap into the COP. I went with common wire instead of uncommon wire. Thanks to Steve @ BBR and NX for the kit and the customer service when i needed help.
The other problem was, i did not have the RPM switch set, so it was not completing the full circuit to the solenoids off the FPSS. Once we set it and the WOT switch, it was good to go. Now just to start the tuning process.
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fitment looks much better on the boss. looks good. cant wait to be back on land so i can get mine all hooked up. gotta figure out how im gonna make my brackets though. i know how i want them to sit, just gotta goof around with some sheet metal and a drill. and a few beers.
I'll take a pic of my bottle placement and upload it later to give you an idea of the location. And yes a few beers always helps get the job done lol.
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Looks good man and I've enjoyed helping you!! Shoot me a call when your ready to tune her!
Are you guys running the n2o line inside the car? I was trying to follow my fuel lines then i realized the line is far to short for that. Barely makes it from the spare wheel well to the nitrous solinoid from under the car. Gonna try routing it inside on the passenger side
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