The check valve is not included with the kit. It is not expensive though, and readily available from your local ford dealer.
Part number
XW4Z 2365 AA
Shouldn't be more than 20 bucks.
It is not your throttle body.
Cruise Control surge after TVS
- Thread starter 1HUBCAP
- Start date
The check valve is not included with the kit. It is not expensive though, and readily available from your local ford dealer.
Part number
XW4Z 2365 AA
Shouldn't be more than 20 bucks.
It is not your throttle body.
Turn off the traction control and see what happens, it waaay overreacts if it thinks it is or may be spinning the tires. There is one turn by my house that goes onto a 55mph street that drops off sharp and then up a hill, if I have the TC on and take the turn and give it 1/5 throttle it will pretty much shut off. Then it comes back on and off a couple times, scares the crap out of me if there is traffic coming. Turn the TC off and it doesnt happen, but I have drifted pretty nicely if I use a little too much throttle
I think the TC or stabil trac tries to pull back the throttle at low angle and it moves too much and shuts the throttle blades.
Only bad thing with the TC off and summer rated tires is it can get a little interesting on cold streets if you arent careful.
I bought my wife her own GT so she would not drive mine
She's afraid to drive mine now.
My wife drove mine when her car was in for service and she hated it, since the throttle is pretty touchy and she is pretty much a 90% throttle or completely throttle off driving person it scared the crap out of her.
It's reading like the "Stock drive-ability except when you step on it" is more of a myth than reality with all of the blowers which is incredibly unfortunate to read.
On my car this is a quirk that seldom happens, and in no way would change my mind about doing this again. I drive my car daily and in every weather condttion. You drive it enough you'll find a fault somewhere and there will always to be something.
Yea, I'm pretty picky and since there are no leaks, belt stays on, etc its pretty easy to try to find and point out small things.
I could point out way more annoying small things on my old STOCK 2010 GT500 though.
Even with a few quirks I am 100% happy with it overall and its been over a year now. Like you I drive mine every day, except in snow/salt, its easy to have a 'perfect' setup that gets driven on and off the trailer - I've had plenty of those
Only certain way to keep any car driving 100% stock is to leave it 100% stock.
I just drove my car 60+ miles to work Thursday when it got down to 20 degrees. As long as there isn't freezing rain, 10" of snow, etc my car is my daily driver and I have no issues with that. I'm running 315 wide summer tires otherwise it would be taking me to work on snowy days too.
I'm still digging my car. Things will not be perfect when you add 200rwhp and stupid amounts of lowend TQ to a new vehicle people are still figuring out. 10 second time slips and 25mpg make it worth the wait to get the final drivability issues worked out. I am sorry to see others have the issue, but it is good to see more people doing the kit. Can only lead to more data, testing, and hopefully good resolutions for all eventually.
Turn off the traction control and see what happens, it waaay overreacts if it thinks it is or may be spinning the tires. There is one turn by my house that goes onto a 55mph street that drops off sharp and then up a hill, if I have the TC on and take the turn and give it 1/5 throttle it will pretty much shut off. Then it comes back on and off a couple times, scares the crap out of me if there is traffic coming. Turn the TC off and it doesnt happen, but I have drifted pretty nicely if I use a little too much throttle
I think the TC or stabil trac tries to pull back the throttle at low angle and it moves too much and shuts the throttle blades.
Only bad thing with the TC off and summer rated tires is it can get a little interesting on cold streets if you arent careful.
Well, on the highway I was not in it hard enough to come close to spinning, I think 70mph at 2000rpm. Also there was the idling away from pumps and the surge there, definitely not spinning.
Doesnt seem to matter if its really going to spin the tires, it just thinks its going to spin the tires it backs off the throttle. Drive around with it off and see if you notice any difference, when I'm on the mountain roads if I leave the TC in it will do it quite a bit, its really noticeable if you hold it in 2nd gear at higher RPM.
Idling away from a gas pump who knows
Doesnt seem to matter if its really going to spin the tires, it just thinks its going to spin the tires it backs off the throttle. Drive around with it off and see if you notice any difference, when I'm on the mountain roads if I leave the TC in it will do it quite a bit, its really noticeable if you hold it in 2nd gear at higher RPM.
Idling away from a gas pump who knows
I'll give it a try, problem is that it doesnt happen often. With my initial tunes i could make it happen almost at will, with this tune it's not that easy, it just does it when it does it.
it may not help you at all, its hard to tell if doesnt do it all the time.
There are a lot of things that can cause it, I'm hoping sooner or later someone else besides SCT, like HPTuner or something, comes out with some better tuning software with a logger that actually works and has access to all the tables.
Until then not much I can do about it but wait it out..
Surge, Surge, Surge
I'm going to fire back up this thread in hopes that someone has come up with a solution to this problem. With all the smart tuners out there I would hope that they aren't selfish enough that they won't share the information to help people out. My car...........2011 GT500. Mods.......... VMP TVS Supercharger 2.5" pulley and Justin's hogged out elbow and JLT resonator eliminator. That's it as far as the engine is concerned. I have a bad surge and you can replicate it everytime. Put the car under a load and build boost with part throttle and it is there. Will waver up to 5 psi up and down.
I've tried a new throttle body, full JLT intake with larger Mass Air Tube, air filters with and without screens, a new bypass valve, tunes from 2 different tuners and checked for any intake leaks past the MAF and can't find anything.
Justin has gone silent on me after paying him for a tune and sending him multiple data logs. I am to the point of de-installing and selling off the residual. Let's all remember here folks..............this very supercharger is what is on the 2013 GT500's and I don't hear of issues there so there has to be a fix some where.
ANYBODY ???????????????????????????????????????????
I'm going to fire back up this thread in hopes that someone has come up with a solution to this problem. With all the smart tuners out there I would hope that they aren't selfish enough that they won't share the information to help people out. My car...........2011 GT500. Mods.......... VMP TVS Supercharger 2.5" pulley and Justin's hogged out elbow and JLT resonator eliminator. That's it as far as the engine is concerned. I have a bad surge and you can replicate it everytime. Put the car under a load and build boost with part throttle and it is there. Will waver up to 5 psi up and down.
I've tried a new throttle body, full JLT intake with larger Mass Air Tube, air filters with and without screens, a new bypass valve, tunes from 2 different tuners and checked for any intake leaks past the MAF and can't find anything.
Justin has gone silent on me after paying him for a tune and sending him multiple data logs. I am to the point of de-installing and selling off the residual. Let's all remember here folks..............this very supercharger is what is on the 2013 GT500's and I don't hear of issues there so there has to be a fix some where.
ANYBODY ???????????????????????????????????????????
When my car surges, which it has not done for several months, it doesnt show on the boost/vacuum gauge.
I'd be thinking it was a bad bypass valve if it wavered by 5 psi. Or something messing with the vacuum to the bypass valve.
I'd be thinking it was a bad bypass valve if it wavered by 5 psi. Or something messing with the vacuum to the bypass valve.
Then I would start looking at the things that could effect the BV, like the vacuum lines/hoses (loose, split. leaking, etc), TPS, etc... It seems like one of two things are happening, the bypass is letting boost in (perhaps by losing vacuum) or the throttle plates are opening which in turns drops vacuum and then BV opens.
disclaimer: I'm not an expert, just an owner trying to help think this through.
I appreciate the thoughts. I have (while the engine is running) sprayed carb cleaner over everything that I can under the hood to see if the engine reacts which would indicate an intake leak after the MAF...........and I find nothing.
I tried the pinching off the bypass valve hose and that made the surge worse.
I'm stuck...................anyone want to buy a TVS?
I tried the pinching off the bypass valve hose and that made the surge worse.
I'm stuck...................anyone want to buy a TVS?
If everything is in order with the mechanical it may be time to look at the tune, how bad is the surge? When does it occur?
Edit I re-read your post, I would look at a different tune, at least give a different tuner a call.
Edit I re-read your post, I would look at a different tune, at least give a different tuner a call.
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The easiest way to describe the surge is as follows.
At cruise speed..............meaning 1,500 - 2,000 rpm in any gear if you tip in the throttle to 25% or more then the boost gauge will waver up to 5 psi. Obviously the more throttle, the higher the boost trys to build so as an example if you are in 4th gear at 1,500 and open the throttle 50% you are not in the powerband so you are 'lugging' the engine. The boost gauge will shoot up to around 10 psi and then fall back to 5, back up, back down etc. The actual numbers of boost will change as the rpms build and the car gets into its' powerband.
At cruise speed..............meaning 1,500 - 2,000 rpm in any gear if you tip in the throttle to 25% or more then the boost gauge will waver up to 5 psi. Obviously the more throttle, the higher the boost trys to build so as an example if you are in 4th gear at 1,500 and open the throttle 50% you are not in the powerband so you are 'lugging' the engine. The boost gauge will shoot up to around 10 psi and then fall back to 5, back up, back down etc. The actual numbers of boost will change as the rpms build and the car gets into its' powerband.
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