Driveshaft guidance please!

[haVesoV777]

Hey guy long time ponderer here, finally decided to join! I'll just cut straight to the chase. I need some help learning about driveshafts please! :read:

So for example the Dynotech aluminum DS is rated at 900hp so is the DSS carbon one. And the DSS aluminum one is rated at 1000hp.

So taking those numbers into account, I see guys pushing well over 1K whp. Is it just a risk they're willing to take? Or are there other DS companies out there that make products per customer specs?

And here is my main concern. I know its more or less a "bolt-on" piece.. but I wouldn't want to bolt it onto my car and just start hauling a$$.. is there a special way of balancing them on the vehicle? or do people usually just get it on the dyno and get it up to high speeds to see how it holds up?

Any help is much appreciated guys!! I'm sure more people can benefit out of this especially if they're looking to boost their cars! :rockon:

 

[me32]

most the guys end up having custom made driveshafts past the 1000HP mark

 

[D.T.R]

You don't need to re-balance it or anything. Just bolt it on and go drive the car.

 

[me32]

You don't need to re-balance it or anything. Just bolt it on and go drive the car.

Yup

 

[nosympathy]

If you do get vibrations out of the driveshaft, you can undo it, turn it 180 degrees and rebolt it back in, and almost always fixes the problem.

 

[Aaron@JPCRacing]

Hey guy long time ponderer here, finally decided to join! I'll just cut straight to the chase. I need some help learning about driveshafts please! :read:

So for example the Dynotech aluminum DS is rated at 900hp so is the DSS carbon one. And the DSS aluminum one is rated at 1000hp.

So taking those numbers into account, I see guys pushing well over 1K whp. Is it just a risk they're willing to take? Or are there other DS companies out there that make products per customer specs?

And here is my main concern. I know its more or less a "bolt-on" piece.. but I wouldn't want to bolt it onto my car and just start hauling a$$.. is there a special way of balancing them on the vehicle? or do people usually just get it on the dyno and get it up to high speeds to see how it holds up?

Any help is much appreciated guys!! I'm sure more people can benefit out of this especially if they're looking to boost their cars! :rockon:

We've built several cars in house that make in excess of 1000hp with a dynotech driveshaft without any issues.

We haven't had any balancing issues with dynotech drive shafts. You're more or less going to bolt it up and go.

 

[Dave5.0]

Dynotech. Bolt in. /end

 

[nosympathy]

How much does dynotech charge? Doesn't look like they list any "pre made" drive shafts.

Posted via Topify using Android

 

[Aaron@JPCRacing]

Dynotech 2011-up 5.0L Mustang GT/BOSS 3.5" 900hp Aluminum Driveshaft (Auto & Manual Trans) - Justin's Performance Center

Check out our site.

 

[SCalla1384]

Shaftmasters is really the only true bolt in driveshaft.

But yea, bolt it on, and go haul ass

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Shaftmasters is really the only true bolt in driveshaft.

But yea, bolt it on, and go haul ass

There all bolt in. Only difference is the dynotech have the spacer flange that takes 5 mins to install. The whole job on jackstands should take no more the an hour OP.

 

[zachcrosen]

I have the Axle Exchange that I got used and it bolts straight in. No vibrations and i'm pushing 650rwhp. I think you just need to know your HP goals and get a shaft that exceeds your goal. Anything is better than the heavy stock one!!

 

[Serpent]

How much lighter is the carbon in comparison to the aluminum?
Also is there a noticeable change in power delivery??

 

[jojobee]

Hey guy long time ponderer here, finally decided to join! I'll just cut straight to the chase. I need some help learning about driveshafts please! :read:

So for example the Dynotech aluminum DS is rated at 900hp so is the DSS carbon one. And the DSS aluminum one is rated at 1000hp.

So taking those numbers into account, I see guys pushing well over 1K whp. Is it just a risk they're willing to take? Or are there other DS companies out there that make products per customer specs?

And here is my main concern. I know its more or less a "bolt-on" piece.. but I wouldn't want to bolt it onto my car and just start hauling a$$.. is there a special way of balancing them on the vehicle? or do people usually just get it on the dyno and get it up to high speeds to see how it holds up?

Any help is much appreciated guys!! I'm sure more people can benefit out of this especially if they're looking to boost their cars! :rockon:

Very easy to install on a lift, 6 bolts each end + an adapter.
I got a Dynotech based on reviews and i can say it is well balanced as i went 130-140mph a couple of times vibration free.

Also the price JPC posted is very high, if you shop around you'll find much better price than this.

Caution: since i installed mine i hear a loud whine when cruising around, any abnormal nvh from your car will be heard more with an aluminum driveshaft.

 

[haVesoV777]

Thank you so much everyone, I appreciate all the help!!! Now I definitely have a clearer picture in my head of how things work and where I'm going to head with my purchases!

 

[nosympathy]

How much lighter is the carbon in comparison to the aluminum?
Also is there a noticeable change in power delivery??

From DSS

11. Carbon shaft will be about 1-2lbs lighter than the Aluminum shafts but are much more torsional and will reduce noise in the cabin.

 

[jojobee]

From DSS

In that case i have a Dynotech Aluminium driveshaft to sell, i'm getting the carbon fiber one­.

I want to get rid of the maximum noise cabin as possible as my car is too noisy now. Big exhaust and radio YES, nvh and whine NO!

 

[beefcake]

we run the axle exchange, fastest coyote with a 6r80, and 0 issues out of the shaft, 167 mph

offering free shipping right now on them

beef
513-478-1965

 

[grnenvy]

The fiber shaft is prone to more NVH I had one in my car the Aluminum is quieter.
The weight diff isn't worth the money spent unless your a heads up guy looking for every last bit. Also I never trusted the CF the only way to affix it to the metal ends is with a special glue and with a street car with all the flexing that's not good. Stick with aluminum there more reliable.
I'm running a DSS shaft now and out of 3 diff shafts I had this one works the best in my car. But u can't beat the factory shaft and its noise reduction properties.

 

[06colorado]

Most any time a company rates products well below actual breaking levels. Rated for 900hp is prolly good to 1400hp, it's just the liabilty rating for them.