i give up, what does a person have to do to make a 03 cobra fast?

Jimmysidecarr

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Get the killer chiller if you have not seen proof it doesn't work then you just have not looked.

Otherwise I am expecting to see one of these threads very soon...


AMotorPull125.jpg


seriouslymeltedcobrapiston.jpg
 

mpe331lx

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driving has nothing to do with MPH, my shifts need a little work since i have to lift at each shift. but that wont affect the top end much at all

Driving has EVERYTHING to do with MPH. Yes the MPH is a true indicator of power compared to ET....BUT if you are coming out of the hole easy without spin, your trap will be low, if you are spinning, it can go up, if you are hooking hard and getting good 60 ft's your trap will go higher.

If you are shifting slower, trap will go down. There are many more variables then just flooring the car and it trapping the same every time.


My 96 with a KB 2.8H will run 9.7's and trap 142 with a cooldown and an iced blower. If I hot lap it I'll lose 4mph and run consistant 9.90's@138.


Invest in a large trunk mounted intercooler reservoir and pack it to the brim with ice inbetween runs.


my only concern is 1/4mile MPH, i would rather run a 12.5@130 than a 10.9@ 122
traction is easy to fix, my low hp is not.

Must be a roll racer:nonono:


If you and I were racing, I'll take the 10.9@122 vs your 12.5@130 all day long. Shit, you can even trap trap 140 with your 12.5 and I'll take a 10.90@119:thumbsup:

You know who's getting the win light right?


what can i do to make this car run with a whipple, run without needing magic air or cool air. run back to back to back passess without cool down. run 130mph traps so i can **** with some bikes even when its 110 outside.


In adition to the large trunk mounted resrvoir, Look into a post blower methanol kit. Spraying through the blower will negate the charge cooling effect.
 

spyder1337

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i have seen some 2.5 60ft times with 140mph trap, some very very bad drivers miss gears and still have insane trap speed.

They probably have 200-300 more horsepower than your car.

Facts.. you have the best sounding KB blower made with the worst efficiency out of all the twin screws, you're running 21 psi with no ice or really a cool down (this makes the first part of my post even worse), the car doesn't seem to be pulling timing with the back end mph gain of 26 ish, but your traps reflect a lower 500 hp cobra being driven moderately. The weather conditions take away 3-4 mph of what it would be in cooler weather.. so with all this being said if some of svtp's finest shifters were to be in your car it would probably trap 2-3 more mph and have a mid 11 sec 1/4th for sure.. mph reflects horsepower in a sense and the car just doesn't have it in these conditions to fulfill what you're wanting out of it. You could switch to a turbo setup, make more power for sure but still trap under what it "should" due to the conditions and your lack of wanting to optimize things. When you see these guys trapping awesome mph that most use as a baseline, it's somewhat misleading due to their pre track routine and the conditions they run in when said mph is posted. I remember watching Broke7 run on his drag radials in the dead of summer with his 2.4 kb and only trap mid 90's, shitty launches spinning.. this is the same car when hooking and good air is a mid 105 ish car.. hell his eaton was trapping 100+ off the sauce... just be happy your motor hasn't self destructed. :beer:
 

IronTerp

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Here's a prime example of what some of these folks above are talking about. Below is one of my time slips from a couple years back. With my 530 RWHP Eaton setup, I was racing a 600+ RWHP 2.6H KB Cobra. He had drag radials, full weight, and was a relative newcomer to racing Terminators. I was running slicks/skinnies, lots of weight reduction, pretty well setup suspension, aggressive icing strategies, and although not a great driver at all, at least had been down the strip a few times. I'm in the left lane...... (you can see that the 1/8th MPH clock in my lane was screwed up). I was so intent on maximizing my ET, that I didn't even know he was beside me, thus my reaction time. He had a huge jump, but I was reeling him in pretty well and just ran out of track.

There's just a lot more to this than just throwing horsepower at these cars.



 
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jmstekguy

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Get the killer chiller if you have not seen proof it doesn't work then you just have not looked.

Otherwise I am expecting to see one of these threads very soon...


AMotorPull125.jpg


seriouslymeltedcobrapiston.jpg


lol!, i havent seen that pic in a while, its from a ex-friends hellion turbo terminator that came to my shop with a "custom tune"...sad part is that i let the guy use my shop for 3 days to put another motor in and he was a retard and melted that one too on the first street hit because the tuner swore it wasnt the tune lol...some people are literally born stupid...you cant teach that:loser:
 

shanezt

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Who tuned the car?

dynodan, very very highly recomended and trusted. the tune is spot on and the cars drives perfect.


not gonna quote every one but i am listening, i am not worried about popping the motor, thats why i run e-85 full time so i can run alot of timing and boost.

i am not lazy with my shifts, although i will admit that since i removed the stock shifter i have not been able to no lift shift.

i will search killer chiller again but i always see results from idling, i want to know how much it lowers the charge on a 1-4th gear pull.

oh and thanks for pointing out that this is the biggest heat generating blower around, i did not know that and that explains why my whipple car was not as bad as this.

look the reason i focus on trap speed is because i dont want to be able to run 10's at the track, and then get smoked on the highway. yes i enjoy roll racing, to me it shows which car runs stronger as opposed to ET which just shows who has traction.


and i would like to know how the hell do you put ice in the moroso i/c tanks? for the life of me i cant get that damn lid off with out using a screwdriver and risk messing up the seal. i replaced the cap and the new one is just as bad.
 

shanezt

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put a turbo on the termi and you'll be hailed king of high mph in all the land, lol...seriously tho, join a supra forum:banana:


dont have a supra so i'll stay here. but since this is not smack down i will leave it at that. SFC

edit: looks like you should join a supra forum, 138trap and only a 10.5, those are supra numbers.
 
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Avenger

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To put it simply, I would say a decent setup, some common knowledge and basic driving skills.

From the information provided, I would say you're still missing two of 'em...
 

jmstekguy

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dont have a supra so i'll stay here. but since this is not smack down i will leave it at that. SFC

edit: looks like you should join a supra forum, 138trap and only a 10.5, those are supra numbers.

they are supra like numbers,but its also a car that has convertor issues and doesnt make boost till 500 ft out...those times will be updated pretty soon
 

shanezt

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i'm seeing a trend here, every one that thinks they are john force, and talks smack about driving, races in "cheater" air.



it is 100* plus for most of the year here, i cant change that, i have to find a way to make the car perform better in nasty heat. the reason i dont care about et or 60ft is because on the nights i go to the track they refuse to prep it. no water, no groove, and no traction period, so i dont bother with worrying about hooking. hell from the staging lanes to the starting line is all uphill so you cant even ler the car cool down.


but if the track has a DA of 5300ft then that answers my question, i may as well be back in denver where everyone runs 5-10 mph slower. i guess i need a bigger blower or some nitrous to make up for the vegas heat "handicap".
 

TrueBlueGT

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I think before you spend a gob more money on your car, you should spend a LOT of time reading on this site in the tech forums and learn the mechanical processes behind what makes our cars work. Also, brush up on basic thermodynamics to understand the "why" behind why no car will run the same given highly variable outside factors. Finally, find a better track or go on a night where they actually prep your track. I've been to decent tracks that were pathetic on test & tune nights.

Sorry man but the laws of physics don't take sick days, vacation time, or weekends off. Asking why your car won't run well with a da of 5300 & crazy heat is like asking why you can't fly just by flapping your arms.
 

broke7

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I dont think you understand the concept of how heat and weather will effect a car. Especially a power adder vehicle like a twin screw. I will break it down for you. You need a cooldown between runs, with the hood up, 30-45 minutes, you need ice in the icebox. With that being said, a turbo car will still suffer, they heatsoak as well. Your the type of guy that makes me cringe at the track when I see you come back from a run, or setting in the lanes with your hood down, and hotlapping. I'll say a prayer for your motor in these coming days, and will probably say "i told you so" when you swap to a turbo and still run the same ET's and MPH.

Your at 2000ft elevation already in Vegas, with the heat and the density altitude calculation the calculator came up with 5200ft of Density Altitude. So this is what your car thinks your at, as the amount of oxygen in the air alot less which you cannot make alot of HP. This is why all cars run slow at Elevation, look at the NHRA for an example when they run in Denver. This is also the same reason NHRA will not run a National Event in Vegas during the middle of the summer, only in the spring and fall, the times would be shit, and people would tear up parts. If your still reading this then Ive hope youve learned something.

I might be moving to Vegas in the next couple of years, my car traps 136 in decent weather, I wouldnt even be running my car in 100 degree weather, and if I did, I would be happy to trap 130. I did the same thing in FL, ran in the winter, and kept away from the track in the summer. This is also the same reason you see a shitload of new personal best threads in the fall and spring. I will guarantee you, if you take this car somewhere out east or closer to the coast in cooler weather you will see some serious gains. Even Vegas in Jan-March is alot better.

I think your best bet for intake temp is to back down boost to 17-18psi, and throw a 100 shot on it, cause with what your working including your mindset its not gonna happen EVER. If you want to get serious about runing your vehicle and running good ET and MPH, listen to what these people have to say.
 
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shanezt

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I think before you spend a gob more money on your car, you should spend a LOT of time reading on this site in the tech forums and learn the mechanical processes behind what makes our cars work. Also, brush up on basic thermodynamics to understand the "why" behind why no car will run the same given highly variable outside factors. Finally, find a better track or go on a night where they actually prep your track. I've been to decent tracks that were pathetic on test & tune nights.

Sorry man but the laws of physics don't take sick days, vacation time, or weekends off. Asking why your car won't run well with a da of 5300 & crazy heat is like asking why you can't fly just by flapping your arms.


i wish there was another track but this is it. i miss bandimere so much, even on test and tune they prepped the shit out of it, never allowed street tires in the groove and put down vht after any clean up.
 

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