How much do you think that cv joint can compensate for? 2-3"
Lets talk coilovers
- Thread starter Muff Daddy
- Start date
Turka has a 1 piece 3.5 DS it rubs the fuel tank barly on hard bumps that is why we had to do uca but stock shaft has no rub
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turka's car is slammed too. does he have the dss ds or another brand?
Sorry I'm late :-D
On my particular car I switched to a 3.5" Shaftmasters 1 piece aluminum DS because I destroyed the stock u-joints on the front of the stock DS due to basically drifting the car with incorrect pinion angle.
I then proceeded to not adjust pinion angle (had parts to fix it on order and didn't have another daily to drive) and drove around some more and we noticed, as Moon Rider said, that it was barely rubbing on the rubber by the fuel tank. So I ordered a Steeda UCA mount + 3rd link setup and frustratingly enough - found that the mount really didn't give me much more clearance. 2-3 weeks later, Steeda announced a NEW 2011-2014 specific UCA mount with an extra hole on it that I thought was exactly what I needed. Ordered it, bolted it in, everything was MUUUCH better as far as clearances go but we figured it couldn't hurt to get the DS down and away from the chassis a little more, so I ordered adjustable Steeda LCA relocation brakets + adjustable LCA's.
I haven't installed the LCA or relocation brackets yet but I'm sure they will be a major help to "fixing" the pinion angle that is messed up in the first place. My theory is that if you lower the car ONLY 2" to 2.5" - you don't encounter problems. Pinion related problems start occurring, at least at a MUCH faster rate, when you lower 3" or more.
Again, my experience has shown that you absolutely NEED an adjustable UCA and the Steeda 2011-2014 mount (as it has the lowest adjustment hole of any on the market - from what I could find) ONLY IF YOU GO LOWER THAN 2.5" and then optionally also get adjustable LCA's and relocation brackets as well to fine tune the pinion angle even further.
My rear diff is noisy too so I will see what's up with that soon enough after I fix the pinion problem.
On my particular car I switched to a 3.5" Shaftmasters 1 piece aluminum DS because I destroyed the stock u-joints on the front of the stock DS due to basically drifting the car with incorrect pinion angle.
I then proceeded to not adjust pinion angle (had parts to fix it on order and didn't have another daily to drive) and drove around some more and we noticed, as Moon Rider said, that it was barely rubbing on the rubber by the fuel tank. So I ordered a Steeda UCA mount + 3rd link setup and frustratingly enough - found that the mount really didn't give me much more clearance. 2-3 weeks later, Steeda announced a NEW 2011-2014 specific UCA mount with an extra hole on it that I thought was exactly what I needed. Ordered it, bolted it in, everything was MUUUCH better as far as clearances go but we figured it couldn't hurt to get the DS down and away from the chassis a little more, so I ordered adjustable Steeda LCA relocation brakets + adjustable LCA's.
I haven't installed the LCA or relocation brackets yet but I'm sure they will be a major help to "fixing" the pinion angle that is messed up in the first place. My theory is that if you lower the car ONLY 2" to 2.5" - you don't encounter problems. Pinion related problems start occurring, at least at a MUCH faster rate, when you lower 3" or more.
Again, my experience has shown that you absolutely NEED an adjustable UCA and the Steeda 2011-2014 mount (as it has the lowest adjustment hole of any on the market - from what I could find) ONLY IF YOU GO LOWER THAN 2.5" and then optionally also get adjustable LCA's and relocation brackets as well to fine tune the pinion angle even further.
My rear diff is noisy too so I will see what's up with that soon enough after I fix the pinion problem.
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That upper mount looks like it can be made or at least i can modify the stoc one easy enough--i need to find me some time. Turka how much is your car lowered?
Griever--people will always argue. I ran megans for years on my nissan--i kept up with the big boys in the driving i like. Sure high dollar coilovers say for example moton are worlds above BC/Megan and for the $ id expect that.
Most of us arent race teams--we don't need and cannot utilize expensive coilovers. So why have them? Just to say we have them?
BC is above lowering springs, moton and perhaps KW is above BC. However hearsay is all this is until some scientific data is presented.
Most of us arent race teams--we don't need and cannot utilize expensive coilovers. So why have them? Just to say we have them?
BC is above lowering springs, moton and perhaps KW is above BC. However hearsay is all this is until some scientific data is presented.
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about 3" but I was running a fairly soft spring rate so it would compress down and run tuck almost to the rim (19's) on hard acceleration, etc.
Good to know. Yesterday I pulled my car on to a rack and i have tons of clearance and my driveshaft angle is at 0. I was relatively concerned for awhile. Im lowered around that 3 inch mark( i measured strut lengths so compressed is idk about 2 1/2-2 3/4 inches).
When ever my wheels show up i will need to lower more so we will see so far so good.
Well I got my bc coilovers installed finally. What settings is everybody running for the shocks? I was thinking of trying 9 clicks from full soft in the front and 12 clicks from full soft in the rear.
jayman33
New Member
Muff, I need to see some pics brother. Glad I was able to help you out, now that I picked them up I'm going to try them out on the 13 Boss and see how they perform on the upcoming track days.
I laugh at some of the people who point out K/W or AST (2k+ for dampers) but never quantify why, most likely the reason is they've never ran a set but heard on the internet. Teams or guys who normally run AST, KW, Griggs etc have to get rebuilt after every season anyways. BC will do the same, look into the build quality and how the springs are actually made. I've ran K/W and can say the quality is fantastic but their springs droop just the same after prolonged periods.
I laugh at some of the people who point out K/W or AST (2k+ for dampers) but never quantify why, most likely the reason is they've never ran a set but heard on the internet. Teams or guys who normally run AST, KW, Griggs etc have to get rebuilt after every season anyways. BC will do the same, look into the build quality and how the springs are actually made. I've ran K/W and can say the quality is fantastic but their springs droop just the same after prolonged periods.
Before
After
I still have some fine tuning on the rear height to do as well as an alignment. Thanks for the hookup Jayman, we will be talking again on some other plans I have in the next couple months
After
I still have some fine tuning on the rear height to do as well as an alignment. Thanks for the hookup Jayman, we will be talking again on some other plans I have in the next couple months
jayman33
New Member
Looks good brother!
You going to get me that price?!?! haha
jayman33
New Member
I thought I sent you the price.
Subscribing as I start looking for a quality suspension setup. I can't believe how slammed you guys have these cars. I can't imagine the ride and care that you have to deal with when driving around. You guys are sugar coating the ride quality for sure. Some of these have to ride like complete as$ on the street. I don't see much of actual descriptive objective info in here though. I think I will be going with a spring/damper combo for value and need. I am never going to be at a track wishing I had bought 2k coilovers to give me a 1.4 second improvement. And it's not a 30 minute thing to adjust the height & dampening of your coilovers. You need to lift the car up, possibly remove the wheel,bust your knuckles up, measure, tune etc. It was a lenghty process even when I adjusted my motorcycle suspension. Not to mention how silly it is to see a 30K+ car slowing down traffic to go into a parking lot as if an F1 car.
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Does it ride like stock? No. Is it tolerable? Yes. Stiffer and much more planted to the pavement. Apparantly you have not priced all your options. For what you are going to spend on a good spring/shock setup you could add a couple hundred bucks on top of it and have coilovers. I like being able to set the height exactly where I want it and be able to change it later if I feel like it. Driving a super low car takes getting used to but its not for everyone.
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