Official UOA thread with oil poll

[UnleashedBeast]

Hi Beast thanks for all this work you have done.

I have a '14 GT 500 stock with track pack that I got in November new and I have barely used this winter. When do you recommend the first oil change as I have 300 miles and plan to start driving her in April. Should I get rid of the motorcraft oil then.

I will use this car mostly on weekends and will never track it. Should I run the 10w30 amsoil because that's what I'm reading on this thread and I see it will take 8.5l's.
I will be using this car from about April to November then it will be stored in a non heated garage so which oil and filter do you think will be best for me?
Thank you sir.

I'm assuming you stored the car with factory fill in the sump. If so, I'd run it up to 1,000 miles, drop the factory fill, then use what makes you feel good inside.

If it were me, I'd use Amsoil ATM 10W-30 Signature Series and the EaO11 oil filter for the entire driving season, changing the oil again soon as you store it. You always want to store the car with fresh oil in the sump. When the car comes out of storage in the spring, take it for a long 45+ min. drive to get the oil hot, and keep it there. That will condition the fresh fill you used for storage, getting it ready for all season of use.

Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

When you turn up the power wick, look to Amsoil Dominator 10W-30

Remember, I only suggest using 10W-30 for street and drag use, not extended session road course racing. Anyone who uses their car for that needs to use Amsoil 10W-40.

 

[BrunotheBoxer]

Thank you lube guru.:beer:

 

[Krieger]

Didn't see it mentioned, but the 5.8 in the '13/'14 GT500's have spring loaded piston oil squirting valve's that open at 50psi.

It would be interesting to see a comparison of oil pressure in a 5.8 at normal operating temps and various loads using MC 5W-50 vs. Amsoil 10W-40 vs. Amsoil 10W-30.

Is Amsoil 10W-40 no longer a safe recommendation for street driven stock thermostat '13/'14 GT500's?

From: 5.0 Magazine 5.8L Trinity Article 2013 Ford Shelby GT500 Trinity 5.8L V8 - Power Of Three - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine All Pages
"In the bottom end of the block, the big 5.8 attraction are the piston squirters. These are actually tiny spring-loaded valves positioned in newly drilled passages in the main bearing bulkheads. Access to the squirters is found under the main bearing inserts, and their shooting path is through another carefully placed diagonal hole drilled into the side of the main bearing bulkhead. Considerations on how to aim the squirters include both aiming at the desired portion of the piston--that would be the underside of the dome and the pin boss, and not the skirts or especially the connecting rod's beam--and the length of time the oil stream is on target. The engineers say they're hosing down the piston about 60 percent of its stroke, an on-target average that took considerable effort, they report.

The oil squirter valves are tensioned to open at 50 psi. This is necessary to assure adequate oil flow at the critical main bearing-to-crank journal clearance. It also keeps the squirters from filling the crankcase volume like a bunch of drunk frat boys playing with fire hoses. Only under higher loads and crankshaft speeds do the oil squirters provide maximum flow, and that's exactly when the piston needs the extra cooling. Otherwise, having the squirters continuously flow at full volume would only cause excessive windage, which drags on the crankshaft costing horsepower and fuel economy.

What the oil squirters do for piston temperatures is "awesome," say the engineers. That's a good thing, as the 5.8 piston is subjected to incredible heat and pressure. To put numbers to it, the cylinder pressure in the Condor 5.4 is already an impressive 1,650 psi, while the 5.8 endures a crushing 2,000 psi or so at maximum load. That literally flattens the dome on a 5.4 piston--not from detonation, but simply from combustion pressure. "

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Krieger,

What I have seen in these engines, even with 10W-30 lubricants. Hot idle ~25-30 PSI. Soon as you touch the throttle, it's 55-65 PSI. Exceed 3,000 rpm, and you are well above 75 PSI. By the time you are in that critical rpm of destruction, oil PSI has exceeded 85-90 PSI and pushed open the oil bypass spring in the oil pump, allowing the excess to bypass back into the oil pan.

Using 10W-40, all of the pressures above were ~7 PSI higher in the test.

The Condor, nor the Trinity, have no problems with oil pressure.

For street use, 10W-30 is more than sufficient. For road course racing, 10W-40 is the minimum recommendation. Michael Rausher @ L&M engines breaks in engines he built with conventional 10W-30, commenting how oil pressure is excessive the entire run.....even with a viscosity some on these forums think I am crazy to use/recommend. He also chuckled at the idea of a 50 grade lubricant in this car.

Van @ Revan Racing took his Texas Mile cars the full distance with nothing more than Dominator 5W-20. I know, let that one bake your noodle for awhile.

 

[Krieger]

Thanks UnleashedBeast!
I appreciate the prompt and detailed answer.

I've been running the Amsoil 10W-40 w/EAo11 and have no issues here in California, but 5W-20 in Texas heat pushing over 200MPH is a pretty solid test.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

but 5w-20 in texas heat pushing over 200mph is a pretty solid test.

220.8

 

[cdh027]

Amsoil 10w40

I recently bought Amsoil 10w40 and amsoil filter and now I read this yesterday. Anyone have any additional info on this? Is anyone else experiancing engine noise after using 10w40?

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2013-14-shelby-gt500-413/998006-lifter-rocker-noise.html

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I recently bought Amsoil 10w40 and amsoil filter and now I read this yesterday. Anyone have any additional info on this? Is anyone else experiancing engine noise after using 10w40?

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2013-14-shelby-gt500-413/998006-lifter-rocker-noise.html

None reported. My engine made no additional noises on 10W-40 or 10W-30. Sure it's not a mental thing, i.e. looking for differences and you are noticing a noise that may have always been there?

I have experienced top tier lubricants making the internals of an engine quieter, resulting in the ability to hear injectors more (louder).

 

[Catmonkey]

I've been running the Amsoil 10W-40 w/EAo11 and have no issues here in California, but 5W-20 in Texas heat pushing over 200MPH is a pretty solid test.

I was running the Texas Mile the same day Van set his record, Oct. 27, 2012. The high that day was 64 degrees in Beeville. That's a pretty cool day by Texas standards. I had to go buy warmer clothes the day before because it was colder than expected. Just wanted to set the record straight.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I was running the Texas Mile the same day Van set his record, Oct. 27, 2012. The high that day was 64 degrees in Beeville. That's a pretty cool day by Texas standards. I had to go buy warmer clothes the day before because it was colder than expected. Just wanted to set the record straight.

Thank you for that info. Another factor, Texas Mile cars are not a full temps for long, sometimes not at all. Therefore, like a car qualifying at Nascar, you want all the efficiency you can get since it's only a single run.

 

[Trubble]

Using Pennzoil Ultra (SN) 5W-30 for my first oil change after factory fill.

Blackstone labs said sample of factory fill was high in silicon but pretty good for a new engine.

Debating going to a 10-40 if not a 10-50 synthetic oil next change.

 

[wjlane]

Here is my latest sample:

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Using Pennzoil Ultra (SN) 5W-30 for my first oil change after factory fill.

Blackstone labs said sample of factory fill was high in silicon but pretty good for a new engine.

Debating going to a 10-40 if not a 10-50 synthetic oil next change.

Silicone in a new GT500 engine is very high in the factory fill, anywhere between 250-300 ppm.

Nothing to worry about.

Here is my latest sample:

Looks great, and didn't shear at all. Very nice. Added to my desktop for the next update.

 

[Trubble]

Silicone in a new GT500 engine is very high in the factory fill, anywhere between 250-300 ppm.

Nothing to worry about.

I have on my "TO DO" list an upload of the PDF of the first analysis from Blackstone Labs.

Lab said same thing (and not to worry) about high silicon.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

All new samples have been added to the chart in post #1. Thanks to all who have contributed.

 

[04Marine08]

:smmon:

 

[NuclearPower]

Beast!

I emailed you another UOA from my 2012 GT500, another row for the smurf blue!:beer: Amsoil 10W-40 with 7700 miles on the oil and 52500 miles on the car. All of this is in the email, but I wanted to share with the others here also. I picked up the oil at the warehouse in Dallas and had a chat with the salesman. He asked what I was using the AMO 10w-40 in and I showed him the car in the parking lot. After talking about driving it every dayhe warned me about zinc potentially building up on the valves (seats, guides, etc) the lifters, cam, etc. Not sure that I had heard this before and not sure what he was referring to in terms of using the oil for 20000miles before draining or using it for 100000miles with using another oil. Can you shed some light.

Thanks again!

 

[biminiLX]

I have a low mileage Amsoil 10w40 sample at the lab now.
Dumped the stock oil at 2000 miles in October, didn't even get 600miles on it before storage, but 2 dyno sessions and 1 strip day. Winter and my garage guy screwed me, so it sat in my garage with that Amsoil 10w40 in it this winter.
Changed it and took a sample just before firing it up 3 weeks ago.
I went with RD10x30 as the car will be 750+rwhp, catless and likely E85 soon.
-J

 

[Marty Staggs]

Penrite 5W60

 

[biminiLX]

Looks like I wasted 8.5qts fresh Amsoil 10w40 ;-)
As above post, this oil replaced the original factory fill at about 2000 miles in October, had 6 dyno pulls, 3 passes at strip and then sat all winter after 600miles.
Looks pretty good, what say you beast?
-J