I've been down the 1/4 maybe 20 times with my T2R. I was always afraid of breaking something on the launch so my 60's always suck (like a best of 2.1) and I've never run a tire stickier than a Toyo RA1. No problems here. :banana:
Rear differential cooler
- Thread starter BillsSnake
- Start date
Yeah a 2.1 is probably easier on it than a fast shift going down the back straight..
On another related note, looks like some of the places the holes in the cover are tapped would not allow the BF IRS Brace to work. Are all you guys running without cover braces?
On another related note, looks like some of the places the holes in the cover are tapped would not allow the BF IRS Brace to work. Are all you guys running without cover braces?
TTA89 said:
I got the BF brace and 4 holes plus the fill hole.
3/8 NPT over the ring gear in Diff for the return line.
3/8 NPT on the bottom of Diff for the suction line.
1/4 NPT on the bottom of Diff for the thermostatic controller (Not currently used)
1/8 NPT in the cover near the bottom for the Temperature sender.
Fill hole is unobstructed and still usable. BF brace is on.
i tend to fill it through the axle hole anyway
Running Diff brace with all holes tapped in case.TTA89 said:
TTA89 said:
I think open tracking is a lot easier on the rear than a 2.10 60'. I know that a 2.10 is pretty crappy but open tracking the goal is to shift smooth and fast, not harsh. I think the abrupt power application in first gear on a drag strip launch would apply more strain than say a 3-4 shift on the road course.
I have my draw and feed lines tapped in the case and the temp sending unit hole (just plugged for now) in the cover. Even though the brace really isn't needed for o/t'ing I installed one anyway while I had the rear out. I figured for street driving and and occasional trip to the drag strip it's cheap insurance. :-D
Darin
Open track is easier on the driveline. I'm still running a stock T45 with 435rwhp. On a drag strip, that T45 would have been history a long time ago.
Now, if we talk, cooling, brakes, engine temps, oiling, well we all know which is the harshess environment.
Now, if we talk, cooling, brakes, engine temps, oiling, well we all know which is the harshess environment.
http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bin/view_item.pl?item_id=252
I just foudn thsi doing a Google search. Interesting cooler kit here designed for the BMW crowd. No thermostat or temp guage included. Around $600. First time any BMW kit is less money than a Mustang kit - thinking of KB kit.
Cooler might be a little small. Thoughts?
I just foudn thsi doing a Google search. Interesting cooler kit here designed for the BMW crowd. No thermostat or temp guage included. Around $600. First time any BMW kit is less money than a Mustang kit - thinking of KB kit.
Cooler might be a little small. Thoughts?
Cobra03 said:
Looks reasonably priced considering it has the -10 line and (6) 90's + (2) straights. Cooler does look a little small.
I'm about to take the plunge on the diff cooler for my new-to-me 2003 Cobra. Any updates from the 03/04 Cobra owners? Terry, do you still sell a kit and does it fit the 03/04 Cobra?
Fantastic thread BTW. I spend a couple of hours reading it last night.
Thanks,
Pete
Fantastic thread BTW. I spend a couple of hours reading it last night.
Thanks,
Pete
sleepless said:
Pete:
Terry is no longer selling the kits unfortunately.
Okay, thanks. There is enough info here to make one from scratch. Might start with that BMW kit.
In case anyone is interested I'm probably going to sell my cooler set up. Since I bought a track specific car my Cobra won't be seeing the track anymore so I won't need the cooler. I'll sell the unit complete with all AN lines and fittings (-8), custom aluminum cooler bracket, cooler, pump and bracket, on/off switch (fog light switch that takes the place of your coin holder in the center console) and relay. To install the system you would need to tap two holes in your diff for the draw and feed lines, weld 12 bolts to the steel bumper reinforcement and wire the unit.
The car is a fair weather toy so the cooler set up is just like new. It's only been on the car for 10 months.
If anyone is interested shoot me an offer. It's still on the car but wouldn't take long to remove. :banana:
Darin
The car is a fair weather toy so the cooler set up is just like new. It's only been on the car for 10 months.
If anyone is interested shoot me an offer. It's still on the car but wouldn't take long to remove. :banana:
Darin
An FYI.
Autometer sells a 220 degree snap switch that screws directly into the diff oil fill hole and can be used to activate the pump and fans. It shuts off at 190 degrees
Autometer sells a 220 degree snap switch that screws directly into the diff oil fill hole and can be used to activate the pump and fans. It shuts off at 190 degrees
SlowSVT said:
IMHO you're going to want one that snaps on about 80 degrees sooner!? ;-)
oke:I tapped my diff cover for a temp sending unit when I put the cooler on. I never installed the gauge or sensor though. lol I used to turn the cooler on at the start of the second hot lap of each session. Never ran the cooler on the road as I didn't see any point.
ac427cobra said:IMHO you're going to want one that snaps on about 80 degrees sooner!? ;-)
Bruce
If I do that it will never shut-off :dw:
SlowSVT said:
Well, the problem with most (including mine) diff coolers is they are NOT efficient enough.
If I waited until my diff got up to 220 it would soon peg the needle at 250 and remain there. God only knows how hot the diff is actually getting? If I turn it on at 140 (or so) I can stay about 210 or 220 for the entire session depending on ambient temps and the track I'm on? I do have 4:10's and my diff runs pretty hot with those screws. And I might possibly be driving a tad harder than your average bear? Moral of story, get the cooling going ASAP.
YMMCV
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
Users who are viewing this thread
