Solved the Divinci Code

[NuclearPower]

Need Understanding

Help...I have a 2012 and I am curious. I understand the whole heat soak issue, but everytime I start my car I always hear the fans immediately turn on. If you tell me your heat exchangers are better because of the dual pass design, etc I have no problem believing that. Used to have a corvette and upgraded that radiator with a racing aluminum and it made a huge difference in temperatures. But it sounds like you guys are saying that your fans don't turn on right away and you have to wait for the car to move to push air? What am I missing:??:

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Help...I have a 2012 and I am curious. I understand the whole heat soak issue, but everytime I start my car I always hear the fans immediately turn on. If you tell me your heat exchangers are better because of the dual pass design, etc I have no problem believing that. Used to have a corvette and upgraded that radiator with a racing aluminum and it made a huge difference in temperatures. But it sounds like you guys are saying that your fans don't turn on right away and you have to wait for the car to move to push air? What am I missing:??:

The fans are triggered to turn on when the intercooler water pump is told to by the ECM. So if your ECM detects a IAT2 (downstream air charge after the intercooler temperature) of 70 degrees or greater for example it will turn on the intercooler pump. We trigger the fans to run when the intercooler/heat exchanger electric water pump is functioning. If you want to control the fans yourself that can be done easily by installing a switch however I have found that running the fans continually works well. FYI, the fans are puller fans and not pusher fans and pull the air across the core.

With respect to the heat exchanger itself it is all aluminum, dual pass with a proprietary racing core specifically designed for high rpm and low speed. It employs a proprietary split fin design. This is the reason why the core is thinner and not very dense as opposed to other products on the market.

Thanks for the questions and I hope I answered them fully. If not please let me know.

Van

 

[RedfireWhipple]

Just a silly question here-- not from an expert or anyone that states to be very intelligent -- but, there was a good bit written about how the SP increases when air is moving thru the H/E from the car moving. My logic (which is often skewed , lol) tells me that if fans are PULL THROUGH and sitting behind the H/E , that the fans would be functioning of course to PULL air from the H/E and send that air of course back towards the engine block towards the back of the car.

If this is correct, which it is, then doesn't that mean that the fans themselves would be working their hardest (causing more current load) when there is NO foreward movement of the car? Assuming there is no rain -- wouldn't the extra flow (from driving forward at any speed) of air hitting the H/E from the front and going through the H/E (and IF it was still having forward motion after going through all the fins) actually HELP the fans in taking some Load off of them , meaning lessening the power/current needed to keep the fans moving at their designed speed?

I could be wrong, but think of a pin wheel maybe-- if pin wheel was behind the H/E and if air was actually making it through the H/E due to speed of the vehicle moving forward, then the pinwheel will start to spin. IF the spinning rotation direction of that pinwheel / Fan spins the same way when PULLING air through the H/E then doesn't stand to reason that the fans / pinwheels would be getting a little help when the car is moving forward?

I only state / ask this due to the statements made by OP that when the car is moving forward that it causes MORE Static pressure.

The entire post was (I think) very good and you can tell that the OP took a lot of time to do the research, which all of us should be appreciative of. The only part that got me thinking though , was the part about the SP being raised when air was coming through the H/E due to the car moving forward. That got me thinking.. Again, I could definitely be wrong, but just thought I would ask others if this could be correct.

Either way, it looks like they are obviously having an issue and luckily there is a vendor and a solution.

I do not have an AFCO unit nor do I have any loyalty to a particular manufacturer or vendor, just thought I would ask , as logic often get's the best of me , whether right or wrong. lol.

Do you think there is any logic to what I'm asking?

 

[dirtyo2000]

Yes it would be if the fans were mounted sideways. Since the air is hitting the front of the fan blades it must disperse the air across the fan this is coming in. Think of it like this. If you take a pin wheel and use a fan to move it. If you place the face of the pinwheel in front of the fan it will blow it away form the fan not really turning it at all. Turn it sideways and it will spin very quickly depending on its structure and friction point on the axis.

Nothing wrong and I encourage all to start thinking when they're making investments in a product. I use to have the paper ones you get at the store and hold them out the car window while my mom drove him. Sideways it would spin so fast you couldn't really see it. Turn it straight and it would try and come apart. Man I miss being young.

 

[Illtaketwlight]

Can i see a pic of your test equipment that you used in your testing. Also track data. Because mine is saying your full of spectacle BS and so far off its funny. You will learn shit the hard way. The reason good techs don't post is. Because they don't want to give away good info. That takes money and time to figure out. What we do, is sit back and get a good laugh at post like these. LMMFAO.......op: Sit back and enjoy the show. Its a good comedy....Staring DirtyOH....2000.....oke: How does it feel running a fan system that was designed in the 80's on your 50K 2000+ mustang. At least back then they didn't have electronics to F.U. I say howdy to you alllllll....Here in about a month i'll post some info along with tests. That all of you will enjoy by way of DVD.

 

[CPRsm]

If this is correct, which it is, then doesn't that mean that the fans themselves would be working their hardest (causing more current load) when there is NO foreward movement of the car?

You are correct. The pressure in front of the H/E would make it easier to draw the air thru. Also, I found with radiators and fans a few years ago that at speed, the car still cool much faster with the fans on, than off. The fan and it's shroud get in the way enough, even though the fan is spinning while driving, to cause a restriction of air flow. So for a tune, I see no reason to turn the fans off if you're going 45mph and the car still needs to cool. This maybe be a smaller difference because the fans are smaller. And an engine fans shroud exit for air is much smaller than the area it covers.

 

[NuclearPower]

The fans are triggered to turn on when the intercooler water pump is told to by the ECM. So if your ECM detects a IAT2 (downstream air charge after the intercooler temperature) of 70 degrees or greater for example it will turn on the intercooler pump. We trigger the fans to run when the intercooler/heat exchanger electric water pump is functioning. If you want to control the fans yourself that can be done easily by installing a switch however I have found that running the fans continually works well. FYI, the fans are puller fans and not pusher fans and pull the air across the core.

With respect to the heat exchanger itself it is all aluminum, dual pass with a proprietary racing core specifically designed for high rpm and low speed. It employs a proprietary split fin design. This is the reason why the core is thinner and not very dense as opposed to other products on the market.

Thanks for the questions and I hope I answered them fully. If not please let me know.

Van

So let me make sure I understand. I'm fine as I stand with the current factory setup since the fans arleady turn on, BUT with your setup I can ensure a lower temperature than is possible with the factory setup? If so would I have to do a tune when i replace the HE? It would seem that I would need to or the computer would not be able to take advantage of the lower temperature.:-D Or have I simplified this to the point of :burn:
Thanks for the info guys... Can somebody tell me what a WOT box is:??:

 

[CPRsm]

So let me make sure I understand. I'm fine as I stand with the current factory setup since the fans arleady turn on, BUT with your setup I can ensure a lower temperature than is possible with the factory setup? If so would I have to do a tune when i replace the HE? It would seem that I would need to or the computer would not be able to take advantage of the lower temperature.:-D Or have I simplified this to the point of :burn:
Thanks for the info guys... Can somebody tell me what a WOT box is:??:

Kind of. The factory tune will pull timing when the inlet temps go up to protect the engine, which costs power. His H/E would keep those temps down, keeping the timing where it should be, and keeping power as high as possible with the tune you have. A tune will help any stock GT500. But you would not need it if you put his H/E on. Although his H/E will make sure you get your monies worth of a tune. Timing is VERY important to power.

WOT box is a Wide Open Throttle device. Lets you keep your foot planted while you shift. Cuts the ignition for a split second to make it easier.

 

[NuclearPower]

WOT box is a Wide Open Throttle device. Lets you keep your foot planted while you shift. Cuts the ignition for a split second to make it easier.

Thanks. Don't need that.

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

So let me make sure I understand. I'm fine as I stand with the current factory setup since the fans arleady turn on, BUT with your setup I can ensure a lower temperature than is possible with the factory setup? If so would I have to do a tune when i replace the HE? It would seem that I would need to or the computer would not be able to take advantage of the lower temperature.:-D Or have I simplified this to the point of :burn:
Thanks for the info guys... Can somebody tell me what a WOT box is:??:

Did CPRsm answer your question to your satisfaction or do you have any further questions? That's why we're here!

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

Can i see a pic of your test equipment that you used in your testing. Also track data. Because mine is saying your full of spectacle BS and so far off its funny. You will learn shit the hard way. The reason good techs don't post is. Because they don't want to give away good info. That takes money and time to figure out. What we do, is sit back and get a good laugh at post like these. LMMFAO.......op: Sit back and enjoy the show. Its a good comedy....Staring DirtyOH....2000.....oke: How does it feel running a fan system that was designed in the 80's on your 50K 2000+ mustang. At least back then they didn't have electronics to F.U. I say howdy to you alllllll....Here in about a month i'll post some info along with tests. That all of you will enjoy by way of DVD.

shit or get off the pot, no one cares about your 'greater than thou' insults.

 

[dirtyo2000]

No test equipment for what I did. All you need is basic understanding of I would say Algebra and the numeric values to plug in. If you go to SPAL's site they give you the current draw with the Static Pressure applied. Do a quick google and you will see the surface area of the H/E. All you need is the formula for density of the material and I was generous and used a correcting of 2 instead of 3 giving them the benefit of the doubt.

Has for running a fan system designed in the 80s I have no problem with that. I'm not understanding where you are coming from though. I usually follow along and make the jokes but I can't on this one. Are you saying that the H/E is useless? Now it has proved itself on many cars with heatsoak. I can't figure out where your going but if you have a better way then I would listen. I think the company's are making money off their H/E's so if you have a better idea then you could corner the market.

I like DVD's, so when are you publishing yours.

 

[GOTSVT?]

Can i see a pic of your test equipment that you used in your testing. Also track data. Because mine is saying your full of spectacle BS and so far off its funny. You will learn shit the hard way. The reason good techs don't post is. Because they don't want to give away good info. That takes money and time to figure out. What we do, is sit back and get a good laugh at post like these. LMMFAO.......op: Sit back and enjoy the show. Its a good comedy....Staring DirtyOH....2000.....oke: How does it feel running a fan system that was designed in the 80's on your 50K 2000+ mustang. At least back then they didn't have electronics to F.U. I say howdy to you alllllll....Here in about a month i'll post some info along with tests. That all of you will enjoy by way of DVD.

Why do you have to come off being so arrogant? This is a public forum where car enthusiast try to help each other. Why the big secret? If you have such good info, spill the beans?

 

[09Troublemaker]

Why do you have to come off being so arrogant? This is a public forum where car enthusiast try to help each other. Why the big secret? If you have such good info, spill the beans?

I'm thinking its got to be top secret

 

[Ry_Trapp0]

Why do you have to come off being so arrogant? This is a public forum where car enthusiast try to help each other. Why the big secret? If you have such good info, spill the beans?

are you kidding me man? techs don't post valuable info on forums! your gonna have to wait for his DVD!!! :nonono: