SVTP your my only hope!!!!! Car not firing

ToddEdge

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Might want to have Greg swap the computer for another to rule out frying something in the computer. My last '03 had a bad computer and it would run one day and not the other. We swapped in a spare computer my local shop had and realized that was the issue.

Todd
 

hotcobra03

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I'm really surprised Greg couldn't figure it out.

Since your not getting spark does the coils have 12V?

Check the black coil wires for continuity from the ecu connector to the coil connector.

It's very unlikely that all the coil drivers went out at the same time.

You checked the crank sensor but how did you check it? With another known good part? You need check the crank sensor wiring for continuity also.

Check the clutch switch to see if it's getting power when the clutch is pressed.

this..

you really need to look over the engine harness real good..

a multi meter is needed for this,,not looking with eye..

something says you damaged the wires for crankshaft sensor signal for pcm to start coils

as long as the intake was all that was really touched..

the other would be if front cover was off..the trigger ring might be missing,,,it should have been checked already by looking into hole of crank sensor with light,it could break on its own
 

Huachipato

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I didn't think the engine would even turn over if the clutch was not pressed in (It would cause the car to actually lunge forward if it was left in gear). I'm sure you checked this - but maybe the PATS are the issue in some way?

Nevermind - I see you Turned PATS off.
 
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wallie40

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I would also check the clutch switch and the harness. It has to be something that was just overlooked.

That sucks Jason.

-Paul
 

Darko

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Unless you fried something in the computer, or have a short in a wire

We already swapped the computer to rule that out

Might want to have Greg swap the computer for another to rule out frying something in the computer. My last '03 had a bad computer and it would run one day and not the other. We swapped in a spare computer my local shop had and realized that was the issue.

Todd

Already did that

this..

you really need to look over the engine harness real good..

a multi meter is needed for this,,not looking with eye..

something says you damaged the wires for crankshaft sensor signal for pcm to start coils

as long as the intake was all that was really touched..

the other would be if front cover was off..the trigger ring might be missing,,,it should have been checked already by looking into hole of crank sensor with light,it could break on its own

When you say front cover was off, what are you referring to?

I didn't think the engine would even turn over if the clutch was not pressed in (It would cause the car to actually lunge forward if it was left in gear). I'm sure you checked this - but maybe the PATS are the issue in some way?

Nevermind - I see you Turned PATS off.

Exactly, it wont even try to crank
 

Darko

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I would also check the clutch switch and the harness. It has to be something that was just overlooked.

That sucks Jason.

-Paul

My guess is that its something in the harness.:shrug: But I did put a new lower on and pull my bumper to re paint my HE. I didnt mess with or hit the crank sensor to my knowledge. But we changed that out so I dont see how it could be that.

As far as the clutch switch, I asked Greg and he told me that the car wont even crank if that switch was messed up.
 

wallie40

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It has to be something overlooked. You pulled off the blower at the same time? Maybe something got pinched or broken that you where unaware of. When do u get your car back?
 

wallie40

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You didnt happen to turn over the motor when the blower was off or spin the motor the wrong direction when changing the lower? I was thinking maybe you jumped a tooth on chain and the cam timing is off.

Just shooting in the dark.

-Paul
 

SVT_Troy

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You didnt happen to turn over the motor when the blower was off or spin the motor the wrong direction when changing the lower? I was thinking maybe you jumped a tooth on chain and the cam timing is off.

Just shooting in the dark.

-Paul

don't see how turning the motor over with the blower being removed could cause timing to change......
 

slow2002gt

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As soon as I saw this thread title I thought of Star Wars.

Would a bad FRPS not let spark go through? Seems like you went through everything else
 

wallie40

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Just thinking out loud. I was thinking of compression, but i dont think that would effect it. Spit Balling.....
 

SVT_Troy

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As soon as I saw this thread title I thought of Star Wars.

Would a bad FRPS not let spark go through? Seems like you went through everything else

Iv'e heard of bad FRPS's creating different symptoms but have yet to see a fail to attempt to crank and replacing a FRPS fixed it......

There has to be a bad wire, module and or sensor here.... Chasing electrical gremlins suck and really the only way to correct the problem is a manual and a multimeter
 

hotcobra03

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front cover

cover behind pulleys on engine..

covers the timing chains...

if cover was removed the last piece to go on before cover is the trigger wheel for crankshaft position sensor...

it is a thin metal wheel that has teeth that pass across crank sensor and causes a signal.

this signal goes to pcm to start firing of coils...

these wires run through engine harness..which is the only tie i see with your work causing a wire issue..

there are some threads on other issues ,,like coil catches fire after working on engine..problem found in harness on firewall where the big bend is..was caused by bumping into it ,,pinching,pulling ,,dropped wrench..wrench hitting when trying to break a tight nut/bolt..that first bang that your finger would get cut...


did you download manual to follow for wiring..

you can google how to test ford 4.6/5.4 electrical sensors with multimeter..it will have step by step color pics of how to do this,,very easy for a first timer..

you can make it easy by using the big connector with the 10mm bolt in it..

sensor can be test by hand..even the signal can be faked with a wave of a metal tool.vs cranking engine.

i had issues after head change with cam position sensor wiring..streched the wire enough to get po340...found problem within mins after following tests step by step on sensor..with cheap auto parts store multimeter...

reguardless if your a trained pro or not,,something like this can happen to anyone..

9 out of 10 its the last thing we did..you did acouple of things already as to parts swapping...

its so hard to say what to look for..now other than you need to test and show results ..
 

Darko

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Iv'e heard of bad FRPS's creating different symptoms but have yet to see a fail to attempt to crank and replacing a FRPS fixed it......

There has to be a bad wire, module and or sensor here.... Chasing electrical gremlins suck and really the only way to correct the problem is a manual and a multimeter

For the FRPS we unplugged it and same thing is happening. Also tried swapping it out.

We had a electrical issue with our old Rinker boat and let me tell you, we changed so many things on it and up until the day we sold it we couldn't figure out what was wrong. Not stoked about this. Especially since I have no idea what was damaged or shorted.
 

Darko

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front cover

cover behind pulleys on engine..

covers the timing chains...

if cover was removed the last piece to go on before cover is the trigger wheel for crankshaft position sensor...

it is a thin metal wheel that has teeth that pass across crank sensor and causes a signal.

this signal goes to pcm to start firing of coils...

these wires run through engine harness..which is the only tie i see with your work causing a wire issue..

there are some threads on other issues ,,like coil catches fire after working on engine..problem found in harness on firewall where the big bend is..was caused by bumping into it ,,pinching,pulling ,,dropped wrench..wrench hitting when trying to break a tight nut/bolt..that first bang that your finger would get cut...


did you download manual to follow for wiring..

you can google how to test ford 4.6/5.4 electrical sensors with multimeter..it will have step by step color pics of how to do this,,very easy for a first timer..

you can make it easy by using the big connector with the 10mm bolt in it..

sensor can be test by hand..even the signal can be faked with a wave of a metal tool.vs cranking engine.

i had issues after head change with cam position sensor wiring..streched the wire enough to get po340...found problem within mins after following tests step by step on sensor..with cheap auto parts store multimeter...

reguardless if your a trained pro or not,,something like this can happen to anyone..

9 out of 10 its the last thing we did..you did acouple of things already as to parts swapping...

its so hard to say what to look for..now other than you need to test and show results ..

Really appreciate the input. I have a multimeter but still need to download a manual. Anyone have one they could email to me?
 

hotcobra03

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Really appreciate the input. I have a multimeter but still need to download a manual. Anyone have one they could email to me?

manual is on this site,,free download..takes acouple mins to do..

link found in sticky...read before you post...scroll down till you see some links from cobra bob....3rd 1 i think says 2003 images of manual?

for just reading.. google,,FYI free browesable ford factory manual..its 05 and up

edit..link for manual
http://www.jpispace.com/images/2003_Mustang_Manual/

ive done this on 3 different pc`s..

you can follow instructions as to how to install from zip to c drive...

i had issues with the 2nd half where you change line...

another member shared a file that turns it on...i can only share it thru email...

you will need to upgrade adobe reader to 9.0 or higher to read wiring diagrams...

pm me an email i will send file..than help you get it working..
 
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ashleyroachclip

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I don't have much to add other than if you have 12 volts at the coils that is good , but you need to have the ground completed to make them work.
l have not looked at the schematic for your car, I have an 01, but I think (dumb idea I know ) the ccrm is where the relay is for that .
Have you tried spraying starting fluid into the throttle body to rule out a fuel problem?
how do you know you have fuel? are the plugs wet?
I am just making a few educated observations .
 

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