Whipple/ Kenne Bell/ Roush vs Paxton/Vortech/ Procharger

[INEEDA_TERMI]

Hello, I am researching kits for my 2013 5.0. There's an overwhelming number of kits available and this makes the decision that much harder. My goals would be a 10 sec. true street car daily driven. The most tire that I want to run would be a radial, no swapping tires back and fourth. I used to have an 03Cobra with 2.2 kenne bell @ 15 psi w/4.10 gears and supporting mods. I am looking for that experience with this car. What will get me there and be the most efficient? I like the instant torque off the hit which is why I am considering the PD chargers, but I've been seeing some impressive time slips with the centrifugals. Im looking to stay around 550-600 wheel and be completely safe and streetable. What do you guys think?
I am also impressed with some of the turbo setups as well.

3.73 car

Discuss..

 

[jdcobra]

Go with a beefcake special Paxton/vortech full kit and change to 3.31s. Anything more and the first and maybe second gear will be useless. I have 3.31 gears and I plan with going with one of his kits.

 

[INEEDA_TERMI]

Go with a beefcake special Paxton/vortech full kit and change to 3.31s. Anything more and the first and maybe second gear will be useless. I have 3.31 gears and I plan with going with one of his kits.

That is exactly one of the kits I was considering. I would like to see a true,, mod for mod except blower comparison with dyno and track times. How about the street fun factor when you roll on the pedal? The cobra used to break loose like nobody's business at ANY rpm. At what rpm do the paxton start building boost that you can feel?

 

[jdcobra]

Pretty much whenever you punch it. It has torque but not as much as the hellion kit does, or so people say. Beefcake would be able to answer all your questions I'd recommend sending him a pm and he will get back to you pretty quickly!

 

[INEEDA_TERMI]

Pretty much whenever you punch it. It has torque but not as much as the hellion kit does, or so people say. Beefcake would be able to answer all your questions I'd recommend sending him a pm and he will get back to you pretty quickly!

Kool. Yea I know the turbo would make more torque. Question, why is it pd chargers spool quicker?

 

[jdcobra]

Kool. Yea I know the turbo would make more torque. Question, why is it pd chargers spool quicker?

That I don't really know the exact answer too. I know it has to do with how it's made the pd blowers deliver constant level of pressure at any speed but decreases with the engine speed. I don't know the exact mechanics of it unfortunately but would too like to know the answer.

 

[pohnjarker]

correct me if im wrong but PD chargers dont "spool", then turn because they are directly connected to the crank. therefore, they put more stress directly on the crank and give it that instant torque you're used to. the Centri works more or less like a turbo, building boost slowly as it goes higher into the RPM range.

on 315 NT05s, i had them break loose doing a 4th gear wot run from 2k-6-rpm once i hit about 4k rpm with my paxton kit. it was a cold night which is the reason for it, but once the boost hits, its really hits.

i have 3.73s and plan on going down to a 3.27 so hopefully i can have a bit more traction and keep it into boost just a bit longer.

 

[INEEDA_TERMI]

correct me if im wrong but PD chargers dont "spool", then turn because they are directly connected to the crank. therefore, they put more stress directly on the crank and give it that instant torque you're used to. the Centri works more or less like a turbo, building boost slowly as it goes higher into the RPM range.

on 315 NT05s, i had them break loose doing a 4th gear wot run from 2k-6-rpm once i hit about 4k rpm with my paxton kit. it was a cold night which is the reason for it, but once the boost hits, its really hits.

i have 3.73s and plan on going down to a 3.27 so hopefully i can have a bit more traction and keep it into boost just a bit longer.

so from a dig, how early in the rpm does the boost come on?

 

[pohnjarker]

so from a dig, how early in the rpm does the boost come on?

sorry bro, havent run it from a dig yet. i only got about 100 miles on it before i had to come back over here.

i'll find out more when i get home in May and get to a track.

it hit about 4k for me on my roll runs so im guessing it will be the same in every gear but others will know for sure.

ETA: take a look at some of the dyno sheets here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-2014-mustangs-354/919913-supercharger-time-2.html

 

[grnenvy]

Unfortunately running mid 10s on a radial is very hard to do. If u want to do that u may need to go Turbo with a really good boost controler so u can progressively turn the pwr up for traction. Or u can do what I did 12in rim Toyo R88 and a TVS. Theres nothing like instant pwr and traction on the street.

 

[stang910]

From a dig you won't notice any lack of power. The way these cars are geared they get up in rpm pretty quick. 1st gear is completely useless and so is 2nd. I'd say 2500-3000 rpm you can really tell the power is coming on strong. Below that I'd say it's close to stock, but a little stronger.

My buddy has a 04 cobra and I let him drive my car. He did a 40-100 pull in 4th gear said it felt weak on power at 40mph compared to his, but as he got closer and closer to 100 he said he could tell the power was really coming on strong and he got out of it. I told him he should have downshifted to 3rd and done the 40-100 pull and he would of had a completely different opinion. He said since it wasn't his car he didn't want to chance 3rd gear cause I told him it might break loose around 5000-5500.

 

[YELL03]

I am having the same dilemma....

I only want to run radials, not even DRs.

On the street I am afraid any supercharger is going to overwhelm the tires.
Even Centrifugals add low end power.

At least with a Centrifugal you have up to 3500-4000 rpms before the power really starts coming on, with a PD it hits instantly.

Keep in mind, after 1st gear in the automatic or manual tranny, each shift at full throttle will have you over 4000rpms in the next gear.

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

I have the TVS and running the 82mm pulley with LTs and make about 8-8.5 psi. On regular 91 oct and street tires I ran 11.2@129 and on E85 and same boost the car went 10.88@134. The TVS and 3.31s is a pretty potent combination on the street. As the weather got colder I had a harder time getting traction off the hit on my 555 nittos (non DR) but the car still shits and gets. here is a vid of me running a vortech coyote. I started in third and he started in second. I still spun on the hit but was able to get around and hold him off and I was on 93 oct as well. His car dynoed 600/480 iirc. I am glad I went with the TVS ( Terry almost had me sold on the paxton kit which is a badass kit as well) and once I get home from bahrain I am going to be turning the car up and getting it back to the track on slicks and skinnies to see what she does on the 82mm pulley and then ill prob drop down to the 75 and see what shakes loose.

[youtube_browser]QBLLN6hVxY8[/youtube_browser]

 

[INEEDA_TERMI]

I am having the same dilemma....

I only want to run radials, not even DRs.

On the street I am afraid any supercharger is going to overwhelm the tires.
Even Centrifugals add low end power.

At least with a Centrifugal you have up to 3500-4000 rpms before the power really starts coming on, with a PD it hits instantly.

Keep in mind, after 1st gear in the automatic or manual tranny, each shift at full throttle will have you over 4000rpms in the next gear.

Yea I have an m6 with 3.73's so up shifts @ wot should keep me in the power band. I dont care if it's a 10.99 I just wanna see 10's. I want to know that at any given time, I can go mid 10's if i desire. I guess im just partial to the pd blowers.. anyone around the south side of ATL with a centri car that would mind giving me a test ride? Lol

 

[INEEDA_TERMI]

Damn, your car moves out! That is exactly what im looking for! The power, sound and all. I like your setup. What would boost psi be without the headers and base pulley, What supporting mods, VMP or standard roush, Upgraded H/E? i have 93 oct here as well. So, if you had to do this exact project over again, what would you differently, and why. Sorry for all the questions, measure twice, cut once, lol.

 

[SILV03MustangGT]

I like your setup. What would boost psi be without the headers and base pulley? What supporting mods? i have 93 oct here as well.

Without headers, base pulley and stock airbox will be right about 7-7.5 PSI basically bolting on the kit with the 47lb injectors and no BAP. My car ran the 11.2@129 on 47lb injectors without a BAP. Current setup is listed in my sig, but I now have ID1000 injectors and vortech BAP so I can run E85. 93 octane will allow for more timing, 91 oct in okc is kinda meh, so my car is only seeing around 14-15.25* on my 91 tune so its pretty conservative. I bought the standard Roush kit and I am still running the stock H/E. I hot lapped my car in 100* ok heat and saw no timing pulled because my timeslips were all at the same MPH even on 91.

 

[slagburn]

Sounds like you're going the PD route anyway, but I have not been impressed by a Procharger car yet.

 

[INEEDA_TERMI]

Sounds like you're going the PD route anyway, but I have not been impressed by a Procharger car yet.

Procharger is out of the equation.. What would be the differences with this kit only thing being different, whipple head unit?

 

[jayman33]

Everything in the kit is the same between roush and whippe/FRPP. Only thing different is the headunit. Roush actually makes the accessory kits for Whipple and FRPP. You'll make more TQ on the TVS than a whipple, anything below 14psi and the TVS will outperform the Whipple.

 

[slagburn]

TVS does very well for its small size. I would consider the VMP kit with machined snout so you can really up the boost if/when the motor gets built.