I posted 2 UOA on the last page both samples had 3 weeks of racing on them,
each week gets 120-150 laps of doing this...
--------> Race Car Gets Another Win.
oil looks great in both samples.... :shrug:
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Best oil to use?
- Thread starter DavidHasselhoff
- Start date
I posted 2 UOA on the last page both samples had 3 weeks of racing on them,
each week gets 120-150 laps of doing this...
--------> Race Car Gets Another Win.
oil looks great in both samples.... :shrug:
Was not in a street car
You are clueless, post and post again I am amazed you can get online everyday.
@Sky
Why not post the information about your car that is full race so they will stop giving bad advice for your application?
Why not post the information about your car that is full race so they will stop giving bad advice for your application?
I used nothing but Redline in my 03 Cobra... I plan on using Redline in the Shelby for sure! :rockon:
Summit sells Red Line products but they don't seem to carry the 5W50 weight. I inquired with Summit by email to see if they can get it.
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I was buying my RedLine from Jeg's... Haven't checked with them yet...
Yes, Jegs carries it, both in gallon and quarts.
Red Line Oil 11605 Red Line Synthetic Motor Oil
Red Line Oil 11604 Red Line Synthetic Motor Oil
RedLine does make some great products. Much better than getting oil from the Steelership
If I wasn't happy with my current product, RedLine would be my next choice.
If I wasn't happy with my current product, RedLine would be my next choice.
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Hey cool! Anyone know how many quarts the 5.4 l takes in a GT500?
I know I shoutd RTFM... :coolman:
Manual says 6.5 quarts so you'll need 7 quarts.
Post #9 in this thread contains a 6000 mile Blackstone UOA for the Motorcraft oil from a 2008 GT500. Perhaps UB will care to comment on the analysis.
Tiny Metal Specs in Engine Oil? - Team Shelby
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Looks like despite being told that the initial fill of oil from the assembly line wasn't FoMoCo 5W-50 was incorrect. I knew it was, and this UOA proves it. Once again, look at the cSt@100*C (12.82). THAT'S TERRIBLE!!! THIS WAS ONLY A 30 WEIGHT OIL AT ONLY 6,000 MILES OF USE!!! UNACCEPTABLE SHEARING!!! The oil spec'd cSt@100*C at 21.0 (virgin analysis). This is the second sample that has proven that the FoMoCo 5W-50 is an inferior product and should be avoided at all costs.
Now, let's look at the wear metals. IMO, at 12,000 miles of use on this car, the wear metals and silicon are still way too high. A superior group IV synthetic would have already cleansed this engine and protected better making wear much less.
Aluminum - 21 ppm (should be around 5 or less)
Iron - 28 ppm (should be around 10 or less)
Silicon - 119 ppm (should be around 15 or less)
For a 12,000 mile engine, those are too high and wouldn't be with a better lubricant.
Some of you will say, "Well, I don't run my oil for 6,000 miles, or even 3,000 miles, so I'm OK with FoMoCo 5W-50." Your statement is ignorance. Why are you spending 8.00+ per quart (and a filter) and dumping it at 2,000 miles? Unless that's all the miles you drive your car every year, it's a waste of money, and you should invest in a better lubricant.
WOW! That stuff is high, and I thought AMSOIL 20W-50 was pricey for the retail customer.
AMSOIL is cheaper, and one reason (minor reason) why it's my first choice.
Preferred customer price:
28.00 per gallon
7.15 per quart
It's cheaper than FoMoCo 5W-50, yet a step above Red Line IMO.
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the retail ( non wholesale price) on the Amsoil is
$36.40 a gal.
still less than the $42.99 for the other.
That is enough difference to pay most of the Shipping charge, with preferred pricing it wil pay more than the shipping cost
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Ford has and does check the oil in GT500 castastrophic engine warranty claims. It's too much money not to.
It is your car, you can use anything you like. But remember it is Ford's (the dealership in most cases, but sometimes Ford does get involved) warranty, and they say they will only make a claim if you used the prescibed MINIMUM spec oil. They have an oil spec for a reason.
I've used Motorcraft since new, but after reading this thread, my next change will be with something else.
I have used with great luck for over 20 years K&N products. I've used the K&N HP2010 on the GT500 since new.
BEAST, have you had any experience with that filter?
EDIT: found this post on another popular Shelby forum,
"Here is the response from Redline:
Thanks for the note on the 5W50. You are fine to use that product.
While we do not send these oils to Ford for approval, that Ford spec is pretty easy to exceed and this product does that without issue.
Hope that helps,
Director of Sales & Marketing
Red Line Synthetic Oil Corp.
(707) 745-6100"
I can only assume that the writer wrote to Redline asking if their oil is safe to use in the GT500. Although the Redline rep never actually says that it exceeds spec B, it implies that it far exceeds it. Another poster made mention that Ford requires a fee for using the term "can be used in the Shelby GT500"???
My two cents: Warranties are a funny thing, it depends on what kind of relationship you have with your dealership and their shop MGR. One dealership wouldn't even look at an 07 GT500 with clutch issues without $420 up front in the beginning, another offered to flat bed that same car 120 miles, and then replaced $10,800 worth of tranny, clutch and flywheel under warranty because of the TSB. It's all because the owner took time to meet the shop MGR and the techs that "might be" working on his car. It goes a long ways.
Found what I believe is a great article on oil. I'd like Beast's and Thorne's opinion on it.
[ame="http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5384061"]Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas) - bimmerfest - BMW Forums[/ame]
It is your car, you can use anything you like. But remember it is Ford's (the dealership in most cases, but sometimes Ford does get involved) warranty, and they say they will only make a claim if you used the prescibed MINIMUM spec oil. They have an oil spec for a reason.
I've used Motorcraft since new, but after reading this thread, my next change will be with something else.
I have used with great luck for over 20 years K&N products. I've used the K&N HP2010 on the GT500 since new.
BEAST, have you had any experience with that filter?
EDIT: found this post on another popular Shelby forum,
"Here is the response from Redline:
Thanks for the note on the 5W50. You are fine to use that product.
While we do not send these oils to Ford for approval, that Ford spec is pretty easy to exceed and this product does that without issue.
Hope that helps,
Director of Sales & Marketing
Red Line Synthetic Oil Corp.
(707) 745-6100"
I can only assume that the writer wrote to Redline asking if their oil is safe to use in the GT500. Although the Redline rep never actually says that it exceeds spec B, it implies that it far exceeds it. Another poster made mention that Ford requires a fee for using the term "can be used in the Shelby GT500"???
My two cents: Warranties are a funny thing, it depends on what kind of relationship you have with your dealership and their shop MGR. One dealership wouldn't even look at an 07 GT500 with clutch issues without $420 up front in the beginning, another offered to flat bed that same car 120 miles, and then replaced $10,800 worth of tranny, clutch and flywheel under warranty because of the TSB. It's all because the owner took time to meet the shop MGR and the techs that "might be" working on his car. It goes a long ways.
Found what I believe is a great article on oil. I'd like Beast's and Thorne's opinion on it.
[ame="http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5384061"]Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas) - bimmerfest - BMW Forums[/ame]
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That article is also covered over at BobistheOilguy site along with a wealth of other information.
Welcome
The article is very informative, however the author implies that all synthetic type oils have the characteristic viscosity of the higher grade oil (the 30 in 10W30) without the need for viscosity index improvers, but does not say whether this is true for synthetics that use a group III base oil, which I believe is a highly refined mineral oil. In-fact the author does not distinguish between the various synthetics based on their base type (Group III, IV and V) at all.
Welcome
The article is very informative, however the author implies that all synthetic type oils have the characteristic viscosity of the higher grade oil (the 30 in 10W30) without the need for viscosity index improvers, but does not say whether this is true for synthetics that use a group III base oil, which I believe is a highly refined mineral oil. In-fact the author does not distinguish between the various synthetics based on their base type (Group III, IV and V) at all.
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People keep saying that, but not one person has posted an experience. It's simply not true. They will have the oil checked if there is a reason to clearly, but its not an automatic thing and it will not void your warranty unless it can be attributed directly to the failure. That's fact, not internet hear-say or hype. Stop believing everything you read on the internet.
Unless you just complete neglect your engine oil, it WILL NOT CAUSE ENGINE FAILURE! I don't care what spec it is. If one of these engines fail in stock form, its not going to be because the oil wasn't "B" spec. It's going to be because something was assembled incorrectly, a part was flawed or something along those lines. Engine failure is VERY EASY to narrow down and Ford is not going to blame a faulty part or assembly on F'n engine oil.
This is what some of you just don't get! You know nothing about how an engine is assembled or even how it functions in specifics, but you spout off about crap that you heard on the internet as if its the word of the lord.
Stop arguing a point you can't prove or know nothing about. I have built plenty of engines and have torn down just as many if not more. I have destroyed engines and I have built one's that put up with abuse you'd never imagine. Not one of the engines I destroyed was attributed to the oil I used.
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I've read that article a few times, and I agree with 6-speed 100%. The author didn't differentiate between the different base stocks, as they all act very differently in cold weather.
Just for anyone who is looking for it, I just ordered a case of RedLine 5w50 (and one extra quart to make two changes out of it) from Racer Parts Wholesale for 13 quarts it was $137.20 shipped. I know there was one other place I found that was a few bucks cheaper, but they had no reviews and the internet site looked very hokey. I went with the place that had a perfect reputation for the extra 3 or 4 dollars. I'll send my factory fill out to Blackstone when I change it out. It has 2000 miles on it and will be changed as soon as the RedLine comes in.
Blackstone is good, but why not use Oil Analyzers instead. They give you the TBN readings for free, and OAI is USPS or UPS postage prepaid. Blackstone requires you to pay more for that. TBN is another good thing to see how much additive remains. Then we can estimate how much longer the sample could have been used.
Oil Analyzer - postage prepaid
That'll work.
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