Best oil to use?

UnleashedBeast

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Troy doesn't using an oiled gauze air filter also allow for high silicone readings?
At least compared to an OE paper one?

Now that Amsoil has made available those new air filters in some larger sizes, I'm thinking of switching out my 12" gauze for one. I should probably also get an oil analysis done too. I've known about them for about 4 years but until recently did not know about the large oval size with the 4" ID.

It's been a heated debate about oiled filters, so I'm not really going to dig deep with this reply. I will say that I believe that the AMSOIL new EaO filters are the most advanced technology we have seen yet. Oiled filter are simple, cotton fibers and oil to trap dirt. IMO, that's stone age technology. AMSOIL's new material is a nano-fiber technology that has the ability to filter to 15 microns, yet still offer the highest flow available.

I am in fact going to change my FRPP 113mm CAI supplied air filter with an AMSOIL EaO replacement. Soon as I take some measurements to size it up.

For those who don't know about this new filter, look here.

AMSOIL EaO Air Filters
 
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shadyninja

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I too am a UOI junky

the TBN is free when you send your oil to Oil Analyzers
Oil Analyzers Inc

the difference between Oil Analyzers and Blackstone is that you pay for the testing and maybe the shipping/postage (depending which kit you order) ahead of time vs them sending you a kit and hope you decide to get testing done, it saves them money on supplies.

Here are 2 from our racecar
th_oai.jpg


th_report.jpg

they flagged the lead from the race fuel...lol
2 reports 1 from each of our race motors.

we change our oil every 3-4 weeks, while most of the other teams are changing it after 1-2 weeks

and I like the color coated reports


that air cleaner is working :)

*resized images to thumbnails*
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Yeah, that EaO air filter is doing the job. Look at the low silicon #'s.

Also, you beat up on that race car every weekend for 3-4 weeks and the oil didn't shear at all.

Guess I expected that from your choice of oil.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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so then changing your oil at 3k is a good thing.

Why would you invest 8.00 or more per quart, plus a high end filter, and then have to change it at 3,000 miles just because you chose the wrong oil? Makes no sense. Choose the correct lubricant the first time and get your money out of it.

well you seem to be a pretty smart person at least in oil, so would you like to be the guy to test all the companys that make our spec oil in 5w-50 an let us know what will hold up an what will not. you would be doing the GT500 an Ford GT guys a great favor :beer:

Well, we don't need to worry about testing FoMoCo 5W-50, as we have already seen how terrible it did. I've never seen an oil shear like that in so little miles of use. Glad I know about lubricant technology and how to read an analysis, as I know to stay far away from that stuff. IMO, you aren't going to get much better results from the other group III 5W-50 oils that are spec'd for the GT500. They are all going to be formulated in a similar way.

This sparks the question, is Ford truly recommending a lubricant that will protect my investment for 200,000 miles, or do they want me to use something that will assure I will make it long out of warranty, but I will possibly have to buy again soon after? I'd guess the latter of the two.

Also, I have strong feelings that a real group IV lubricant wouldn't have shown nearly as much wear metals and the factory fill lubricant did. The only way to ever know for sure it to dump the factory fill on day one and pour in something I know is far superior.
 

shadyninja

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just for kicks Beast maybe pull a sample from your car's current fill at maybe 3000 ish miles to check the oil at a time when others may be ready to swap it out?

then post the report on here.
 

UnleashedBeast

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just for kicks Beast maybe pull a sample from your car's current fill at maybe 3000 ish miles to check the oil at a time when others may be ready to swap it out?

then post the report on here.

STOP READING MY MIND!!! :thumbsup:

Yes, that's exactly what I will be doing. I have a extraction pump to make it easy. I will suck 4 oz. right out of the dipstick hole. Then, others can see how well AMSOIL did at the 3,000 mile mark.
 
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6-Speed

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The Red Line oil would be the only other fluid I would use versus AMSOIL, in the GT500.
Red Line is a Group V base synthetic vs. Amsoil, which is a Group IV. Can you advise on the differences and whether one is preferred over the other?

BTW - Good techie stuff!
 

me32

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STOP READING MY MIND!!! :thumbsup:

Yes, that's exactly what I will be doing. I have a extraction pump to make it easy. I will suck 4 oz. right out of the dipstick hole. Then, others can see how well AMSOIL did at the 3,000 mile mark.

sounds like a plan. The reason I asked about testing for use is the roush/valvoline 5w-50 was made for racing so is it better or the same as ford oil. I don't have anything against amsoil as I have used some of there order products. The one thing i do not like about them.is that its not something I can go pick up at the store when needed. Which makes it inconvenient.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Red Line is a Group V base synthetic vs. Amsoil, which is a Group IV. Can you advise on the differences and whether one is preferred over the other?

BTW - Good techie stuff!

Thanks!

No, Red Line is a group IV/V mixture. A very small amount of group V. Esters (group V) alone wouldn't carry the properties to lubricate an engine, but combined with group IV, makes a good combo when executed correctly.

sounds like a plan. The reason I asked about testing for use is the roush/valvoline 5w-50 was made for racing so is it better or the same as ford oil. I don't have anything against amsoil as I have used some of there order products. The one thing i do not like about them.is that its not something I can go pick up at the store when needed. Which makes it inconvenient.

Normally, any oil made for racing has a very low TBN (detergent additives) versus normal non-racing formulations. Anti-wear additives (ZDDP) are extremely high in racing oils, as race cars do not have catalysts. I don't recommend racing oils for daily drivers, or if they are driven on the street at all.

Yes, I agree about the ability to grab it as you need it, but if you order ahead in preparation, you never have that problem. I don't care how hard something is to get, if it's the best for my application, I do what needs to be done. Besides, the mileage that most GT500 owners put on their car in a year is far less than what the oil can do. It's more than realistic to only change your oil once a year on AMSOIL. That's what I've done with every vehicle I've used it on.
 

me32

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Thanks!

No, Red Line is a group IV/V mixture. A very small amount of group V. Esters (group V) alone wouldn't carry the properties to lubricate an engine, but combined with group IV, makes a good combo when executed correctly.



Normally, any oil made for racing has a very low TBN (detergent additives) versus normal non-racing formulations. Anti-wear additives (ZDDP) are extremely high in racing oils, as race cars do not have catalysts. I don't recommend racing oils for daily drivers, or if they are driven on the street at all.

Yes, I agree about the ability to grab it as you need it, but if you order ahead in preparation, you never have that problem. I don't care how hard something is to get, if it's the best for my application, I do what needs to be done. Besides, the mileage that most GT500 owners put on their car in a year is far less than what the oil can do. It's more than realistic to only change your oil once a year on AMSOIL. That's what I've done with every vehicle I've used it on.

Maybe next oil change ill get it tested an post an have you read an give your thoughts since I don't understand all the stuff on the report.
 

SmirkNOS

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If you guys go back to the RED LINE website and go to 5W 50 oil, it's says there that REDLINE 5W50 meet FORD WSS-M2C931-B oil specs for use on GT500 Supercharged cars. So I don't know why every body keeps on missing this. I was using Castrol Syntec 5W50 but to be honest I have never been a fan of Castrol, rather always used Mobil 1 wich I consider a very good oil since I have taken apart engines that have been on Mobil 1 for long miles with little or no wear at all. I don't believe in Motorcraft, to me it is and always has been a mediocre oil. So I'm strongly leaning towards using REDLINE this time around. I don't know REDLINE but I've heard good things about their oil. I think I will give it a shot. Every one is entittle to use what they please. What is important is that you use the right grade oil, NOT some weird combination or a non recommended grade like 15W40 or 10 W40 thinking that it will be OK. These cars are build to certain specs and piston rings tolerances. I will only put 5W50 grade on my car regardless of what anybody says...
 

Blackmax

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For the past 35 years I have raced boats, cars and motorcycles. There seems to always be a person telling me how all oils are crap except for Amsoil. In my opinion they try so hard to feed you all this high tech research etc. that it reaches the point you don't believe it.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Maybe next oil change ill get it tested an post an have you read an give your thoughts since I don't understand all the stuff on the report.

Would be glad too, just post it up and PM me that you did. We can chat about it.

If you guys go back to the RED LINE website and go to 5W 50 oil, it's says there that REDLINE 5W50 meet FORD WSS-M2C931-B oil specs for use on GT500 Supercharged cars. So I don't know why every body keeps on missing this.

Never missed it, as I was the one who said in a previous post (or possibly the other thread) that Red Line is the only 5W-50 I would use in my engine. It's formulated right, and it's NOT a group III base stock. It's a group IV/V blend. Good Stuff.

For the past 35 years I have raced boats, cars and motorcycles. There seems to always be a person telling me how all oils are crap except for Amsoil. In my opinion they try so hard to feed you all this high tech research etc. that it reaches the point you don't believe it.

I've never stated any oil to be crap, just other lubricants that are not up to par with other formulations out there. Also, did you happen to see what I've posted before about Red Line 5W-50?

Rule #1, I'm not your everyday common AMSOIL fan boy. I know what works, and what doesn't. I don't bash mediocre oils, I show facts why there are better choices. I commend other branded formulations that are effective, as I've done with Red Line. Stop interpreting what I have been posting as this....

"ZOMG!!! AMSOIL is the BEST lubricant ever!!!!! And if you don't use it, you are using an inferior oil!"

Never will you hear that from me, because that's not true. What is true, and research results don't lie...a group IV PAO, or group IV/V blend, is far superior to a group III blend when it comes to the 5W-50 formulation.

Seriously guys, go for the Red Line and don't buy anything else if you really want a spec'd 5W-50 lubricant. It will do the job far better than any of the other group III base stock oils on the market in your weight.
 

Blackmax

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would be glad too, just post it up and pm me that you did. We can chat about it.



Never missed it, as i was the one who said in a previous post (or possibly the other thread) that red line is the only 5w-50 i would use in my engine. It's formulated right, and it's not a group iii base stock. It's a group iv/v blend. Good stuff.



I've never stated any oil to be crap, just other lubricants that are not up to par with other formulations out there. Also, did you happen to see what i've posted before about red line 5w-50?

Rule #1, i'm not your everyday common amsoil fan boy. I know what works, and what doesn't. I don't bash mediocre oils, i show facts why there are better choices. I commend other branded formulations that are effective, as i've done with red line. Stop interpreting what i have been posting as this....

"zomg!!! Amsoil is the best lubricant ever!!!!! And if you don't use it, you are using an inferior oil!"

never will you hear that from me, because that's not true. What is true, and research results don't lie...a group iv pao, or group iv/v blend, is far superior to a group iii blend when it comes to the 5w-50 formulation.

Seriously guys, go for the red line and don't buy anything else if you really want a spec'd 5w-50 lubricant. It will do the job far better than any of the other group iii base stock oils on the market in your weight.



o.k.
 

jcthorne

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Why would you invest 8.00 or more per quart, plus a high end filter, and then have to change it at 3,000 miles just because you chose the wrong oil? Makes no sense. Choose the correct lubricant the first time and get your money out of it.



Well, we don't need to worry about testing FoMoCo 5W-50, as we have already seen how terrible it did. I've never seen an oil shear like that in so little miles of use. Glad I know about lubricant technology and how to read an analysis, as I know to stay far away from that stuff. IMO, you aren't going to get much better results from the other group III 5W-50 oils that are spec'd for the GT500. They are all going to be formulated in a similar way.

This sparks the question, is Ford truly recommending a lubricant that will protect my investment for 200,000 miles, or do they want me to use something that will assure I will make it long out of warranty, but I will possibly have to buy again soon after? I'd guess the latter of the two.

Also, I have strong feelings that a real group IV lubricant wouldn't have shown nearly as much wear metals and the factory fill lubricant did. The only way to ever know for sure it to dump the factory fill on day one and pour in something I know is far superior.

He said it was the factory fill, not Motorcraft 5W50. The factory fill is NOT the same oil that comes in the Motorcraft bottles. If you want to compare new vs used motorcraft, you need a different sample. It will not do all that well, but the numbers will be different.
 

jcthorne

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Anyone have a source for a great deal on the RedLine 5W50? Several RedLine dealers in Houston but none stock this oil and want full list on a case for special orders.
 

skyhighsd

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For the past 35 years I have raced boats, cars and motorcycles. There seems to always be a person telling me how all oils are crap except for Amsoil. In my opinion they try so hard to feed you all this high tech research etc. that it reaches the point you don't believe it.

Funny you say that, because at least one I know is a dealer for amsoil and I am guessing so is the other.
 

Ray Lucca

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OK, I'm trying not to be confused here:
Beast: I just picked up a New left-over 09 GT500 Vert, it has 180 miles on it now, and I'm thinking of changing the oil at 500 miles, since it has to go back to the dealer for mods, I'll probably get the free 1st oil change with the Motorcraft. I'll leave it in maybe 500-1000 miles. Do you have any comments and or reports on the Castrol 5W/50 and the Mobil 1 Rally 5W/50??? I can source them locally, and consider one of them for the 2nd change. I just went on the Redline web-site and checked several of their Dealers in the OC area, everyone is out of 5W/50, and the S. Ca. Red-line Whse. is out of stock for another 1-2 weeks. Thanx for the info...
 
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UnleashedBeast

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OK, I'm trying not to be confused here:
Beast: I just picked up a New left-over 09 GT500 Vert, it has 180 miles on it now, and I'm thinking of changing the oil at 500 miles, since it has to go back to the dealer for mods, I'll probably get the free 1st oil change with the Motorcraft. I'll leave it in maybe 500-1000 miles. Do you have any comments and or reports on the Castrol 5W/50 and the Mobil 1 Rally 5W/50??? I can source them locally, and consider one of them for the 2nd change. I just went on the Redline web-site and checked several of their Dealers in the OC area, everyone is out of 5W/50, and the S. Ca. Red-line Whse. is out of stock for another 1-2 weeks. Thanx for the info...

Sure, you can take their free oil change. Why not, it saves cash. Then you can dump it and add the fluid of your choice. I would love to have someone provide a sample of the Mobil or Castrol blends, but IMO, if you want to retain a spec'd oil, buy the Red line even if you have to order it.

Though, if you would run the other fluids and report back with a UOA, that would be awesome.
 

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