IRS upgrades ... looking for peer review

Tractionless1

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I retained the stock cover and used FTBR's rear lowering diff mount. I think pinion angle is more of an issue than strength of the cover. Once u get the rubber out of the irs, not really anything left to promote breakage. U get no pinion angle adjustment with the lpw cover. Not saying it not a nice unit, or not worth using. I had one before ftbr came out witgh the mount. Ftbr's HD toelinks make the stockers look like tooth picks. Get them! I have everything ftbr makes on my car. I also have Steeda Springs, MMFLSC's, billetflow irs brackets, hans racecraft rear shock tower brace, bilstein hd rear shocks, detroit true trac diff. And main cap studs. Also use ARP bolts for factory cover, ones lpw includes aren't real nice either so id grab some arp's no matter which way u end up going......my car is also a vert, so its considered special needs. I have a few more things to do yet.....coil overs, and 315's....I still have some mild wheel hop, but generally only on uneven roads. If its nice and smooth it hooks fairly well with the 275's. Hope that helps u.....do ftbr's kit, its top notch! Best mod yet, other than brembos and pulley/tune.

You also have relatively low power/tq. and how many times have you been down the track? Once you start getting in the 600+ tq. range and dropping those 60' times you'll really be stressing that stock cover. Mines leaking after only 6k miles with a Steeda brace. Also if not running a solid pinion spacer and nailing the 60' times consider the chances of crashing the bearing caps.
 

greengt88

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I've been to the track once actually, b4 installing ftbr kit. It was scary. Its more geared for street/autozcross than drag racing, most it will ever see is drag radials, and I doubt I'll ever launch it. I doubt I will be braking the stock cover. I have maincap studs as well holding the diff in. I'm not concerned about it personally. My cobra is my 10th mustang to date, and I've never broken anything in any of my cars other than a clutch. I'm not an abusive driver. Also letting the silicone set overnight is very helpful, I think a lot of guys silicone the cover on and then are filling it shortly after with fluid, this let's fluid permeate the still curing rtv. I let mine cure for 24hrs before filling. Have about 6k mi now on my irs rebuild.....not a drop of oil yet. Do u have a bushing kit done to yours?
 

tt335ci03cobra

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I'm clueless or missed these but these are more offerings for IRS setups...

-level 5 stage 2 Axels with stage 2 hubs ($1500)
-kenny brown rear upper/lower control arms ($900)
-Detroit trutrac or locker for drag racing ($4-600)
-differential lube choice ($20)
-springs/coilovers/shocks ($300-2000)
-etc.

Google search "IRS kenny brown", "IRS maximum motorsports", "IRS griggs racing" to get even more ideas. You could literally spend $10,000 building the IRS alone if you went full tilt. Good luck and let us know what your goals are for the car!
 
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ac427cobra

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I'm clueless or missed these but these are more offerings for IRS setups...

-level 5 stage 2 Axels with stage 2 hubs ($1500)
-kenny brown rear upper/lower control arms ($900)
-Detroit trutrac or locker for drag racing ($4-600)
-differential lube choice ($20)
-springs/coilovers/shocks ($300-2000)
-etc.

Google search "IRS kenny brown", "IRS maximum motorsports", "IRS griggs racing" to get even more ideas. You could literally spend $10,000 building the IRS alone if you went full tilt. Good luck and let us know what your goals are for the car!



The first two items on your list I would not recommend to my worst enemies. :nono:

L-5 halfshafts cause FAR more issues than they are supposed to cure. :nonono: For example:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/761109-broke-my-cobra.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/621883-possible-broken-half-shaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/534997-broken-level-5-half-shaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/761109-broke-my-cobra.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/766390-half-shaft-problem.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/777755-ouch-death-dss-level-5-halfshaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...broke-half-shaft-now-wheel-bearing-noise.html


The next item on your list is the Kenny Brown IRS control arms. A good idea, not a bad design but horrible manufacturing standards and quality control. Not to mention quite expensive. :fart: Read about the issues I've gone through with them:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...er-had-much-confidence-kenny-brown-parts.html

A good posi unit and some good lube, absolutely. :thumbsup:

The coil-overs are really only for hard core racers. The IRS isn't as expensive to bullet proof as you might think. We have customers with well over 600 RWHP running our kit and OEM Terminator halfshafts without issues. Power is NOT what breaks halfshafts, rubber bushings in the IRS sssembly IS what breaks them!

For people who are looking for more information regarding the IRS can see the FAQ on our site:

FTBR Frequently Asked Questions

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
 

tt335ci03cobra

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Wow, judging from all of those links, I can see that lvl 5's seem to be quite the trouble maker. I know that I blew a hub on level 5 stage 1's but with my stage 2 hubs I haven't had any issues yet but time will tell.
 

Tims97SVT

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The first two items on your list I would not recommend to my worst enemies. :nono:

L-5 halfshafts cause FAR more issues than they are supposed to cure. :nonono: For example:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/761109-broke-my-cobra.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/621883-possible-broken-half-shaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/534997-broken-level-5-half-shaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/761109-broke-my-cobra.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/766390-half-shaft-problem.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/777755-ouch-death-dss-level-5-halfshaft.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...broke-half-shaft-now-wheel-bearing-noise.html


The next item on your list is the Kenny Brown IRS control arms. A good idea, not a bad design but horrible manufacturing standards and quality control. Not to mention quite expensive. :fart: Read about the issues I've gone through with them:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...er-had-much-confidence-kenny-brown-parts.html

A good posi unit and some good lube, absolutely. :thumbsup:

The coil-overs are really only for hard core racers. The IRS isn't as expensive to bullet proof as you might think. We have customers with well over 600 RWHP running our kit and OEM Terminator halfshafts without issues. Power is NOT what breaks halfshafts, rubber bushings in the IRS sssembly IS what breaks them!

For people who are looking for more information regarding the IRS can see the FAQ on our site:

FTBR Frequently Asked Questions

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

As far as coil overs go who makes good double adjustable coil overs? I know you can get some qa1's from autofab in md. But are there other good options?
 

Tims97SVT

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Tims97SVT

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depends what u want them for, qa-1 stuff is going to be geared towards drag racing, not street or track use.

True, but if it's double adj then you can make it what you want. You have the control on the valving. The only problem I know of with the qa1 stuff is a lot of people say you need to have them rebuilt out of the box. I know autofab makes great stuff but they are like $800 for the set. Not bad but not cheap!
 

greengt88

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really depends on piston diameter weather it gonna be drag, street, rr......I'd stick with something from Maximum Motorsports or Steeda etc...Did he ever say what he was looking for out of the car?
 

Tims97SVT

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really depends on piston diameter weather it gonna be drag, street, rr......I'd stick with something from Maximum Motorsports or Steeda etc...Did he ever say what he was looking for out of the car?

Yea but if your looking for a double adj coil over for the IRS it's very limited on options. MM does not have one...
 

Quick Strike

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I don't see it mentioned anywhere here so if I over looked it I apologize but you should seriously consider the FTBR toe links. They are far superior in strength to the stockers and more adjustable.


Here is another way (cheaper?) to make them stronger. I did this when I took the "Red Pill" a few years back. You can also add poly stabilizer mounts to the list.
 

SuperSport01

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currently installed:
FLSFC
Eibach sport springs
ARP extended wheel studs
billetflow diff brace


already ordered & will be installing:
stifflers jacking rails and web brace
FTBR bushing & bumpsteer kit
MM low profile bolts
billetflow irs bracket
truetrac

to be ordered & installed
gears (still deciding what ratio)
M-4413-A 8.8" IRS BEARING AND SEAL KIT
M-4210-B IRS 8.8" RING & PINION INSTALLATION KIT
M-4034-A FRPP 8.8" Ford Bearing Cap Stud Kit

Everything listed sounds good. I would get the complete FTBR kit and 3.55 gears are probly the best all around gears.
 

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