Just got a Terminator, and 68 Miles later it's broke.

[SVTdreamin04]

So Corbic may be one of the few who understands my pain. I bought my car from a private seller for cheap, but had quite a few of my own Corbic issues myself. I have a fresh TVS powered engine now.

https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/dumb-stuff-previous-owners-done-to-your-cobra.1147097/


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[SecondhandSnake]

I've been watching the drama unfold since post #1. Never thought it'd keep getting worse.

I'd say keep it and fix it, but I was in the same position with my build. There's more than enough chronicled in my build thread of all the crap I went through. I also wanted to light it on fire and roll it off a cliff numerous times. But you just keep on fixing and eventually it works itself out. (Disclaimer: Mine was a heap from the get-go, I knew it was flogged hard, and I didn't pay much for it.)

Just keep at it. It will be worth it, even if it doesn't seem like it now.

If you're out my way and need a hand let me know. I've already exorcised one cursed black new edge.

...or if you want to sell it I'm just that kind of masochist to go for round two. After all the previous battles I'm well equipped.

 

[Corbic]

Stopped in on the way to work for gas.


Battery died.

Battery is only 6 months old.

 

[SVTdreamin04]

Stopped in on the way to work for gas.


Battery died.

View attachment 1439013

Battery is only 6 months old.

Corbic, for the love of all things Cobra.......you are cursed.


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[Zemedici]

Corbic, my word.

 

[whitedevil95]

Dead alt?

 

[Corbic]

Dead alt?

Prolly.


Needed a Jump at work to leave.


At cruise it’s like 14.0

But sitting at idle it dropped to 13.5

 

[BlksvtCobra01]

Sounds like you have a parasitic draw some where.


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[CobraBob]

Good grief!!

 

[choate]

You don't leave that plugged in all the time do you?


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[01yellercobra]

Salt the bones and burn it.

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[Corbic]

You don't leave that plugged in all the time do you?


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No, but I did have a USB charge thingy in the arm rest that apparently had a blue light....

 

[OETKB]

Prolly.


Needed a Jump at work to leave.


At cruise it’s like 14.0

But sitting at idle it dropped to 13.5


View attachment 1439027

Been 45 years since I worked in the battery lane at Sears but I'm not sure alternator tech has changed that much. I recall that the alternator output was not the same at idle.

I can't remember what I had for lunch so I could be wrong. Plus weed may or may not have been involved in this 11th grade recollection.

 

[speedoflife]

No, but I did have a USB charge thingy in the arm rest that apparently had a blue light....

Parasitic drain shouldn't kill it at a gas station though... especially if the battery had already proven itself started fine earlier in the morning.

I know you don't like this answer, but I've had issues my Cobra not starting a lot this summer. It came down to a crappy ground down near the oil filter and/or my battery terminals - I don't know what fixed it but it was strictly connection-related. I know you've had intermittent electrical issues before. My alternator doesn't perform any better than yours, and it's fine. A 6 month old battery could be bad, but it's unlikely. Unfortunately, finding the culprit is the hard part.

I've also had an 8 month old Redtop go south on me (it didn't sit for 8 months obviously), and I would have sworn it was anything but the battery. Warranty replacement and all was well though....

 

[Corbic]

I'm Back!

Never left actually.

Fixed the voltage drain issue. New Battery, Big-3 and connectors. Car still runs like shit.

I'm looking at doing a complete revamp of the car. Pull the engine, refresh with forged pistons and new bearings. Clean out the S/C and likely reinstall every thing with 1000cc injectors, return fuel with flex fuel and a MS3 Stand Alone. Hopefully all before Mustang Week '18.

Quick few questions -

Pull From Above or Drop Out? I only have a cherry picker.

Aluminum Block or Iron? With new pistons I'll need block work, I was thinking of going aluminum (Teksid, WAP or Aluminator) and punching it out +0.020. It's a 70lb savings. However, I'm open to staying with an Iron Block as well. I'd likely still be getting a new block since I can do that in tangent of pulling and stripping the current engine.

Anything else I should be thinking about or know? Machine Shop recommendations in the Indiana/Michigan/Chicago area?

 

[pwrshft99]

I'm Back!

Never left actually.

Fixed the voltage drain issue. New Battery, Big-3 and connectors. Car still runs like shit.

I'm looking at doing a complete revamp of the car. Pull the engine, refresh with forged pistons and new bearings. Clean out the S/C and likely reinstall every thing with 1000cc injectors, return fuel with flex fuel and a MS3 Stand Alone. Hopefully all before Mustang Week '18.

Quick few questions -

Pull From Above or Drop Out? I only have a cherry picker.

Aluminum Block or Iron? With new pistons I'll need block work, I was thinking of going aluminum (Teksid, WAP or Aluminator) and punching it out +0.020. It's a 70lb savings. However, I'm open to staying with an Iron Block as well. I'd likely still be getting a new block since I can do that in tangent of pulling and stripping the current engine.

Anything else I should be thinking about or know? Machine Shop recommendations in the Indiana/Michigan/Chicago area?

I'm also in Chicagoland area. Check out DSS, they might not be a huge name in the modular world but they have been around for years. Last I knew, they offered lay-a-way on their engines!

 

[gt347mustang]

I'm Back!

Never left actually.

Fixed the voltage drain issue. New Battery, Big-3 and connectors. Car still runs like shit.

I'm looking at doing a complete revamp of the car. Pull the engine, refresh with forged pistons and new bearings. Clean out the S/C and likely reinstall every thing with 1000cc injectors, return fuel with flex fuel and a MS3 Stand Alone. Hopefully all before Mustang Week '18.

Quick few questions -

Pull From Above or Drop Out? I only have a cherry picker.

Aluminum Block or Iron? With new pistons I'll need block work, I was thinking of going aluminum (Teksid, WAP or Aluminator) and punching it out +0.020. It's a 70lb savings. However, I'm open to staying with an Iron Block as well. I'd likely still be getting a new block since I can do that in tangent of pulling and stripping the current engine.

Anything else I should be thinking about or know? Machine Shop recommendations in the Indiana/Michigan/Chicago area?

I'd say fix the issues you have before digging yourself a deeper hole.

 

[Nightmare302]

Alum block. Clean up hone, no need to go .020 over just weakens the sleeves. Make sure you have someone comfortable with Mega Squirt if you go that way. You'll need to be comfortable wiring as they do not have a plug and play harness and you will be doing all the wiring. I'd go with a fore setup, Myself, Malcom and 04Sleeper are all dealers and can help you with that when the time comes. Malcom also has experience with Mega Squirt.

 

[Shadow Grey 03]

Salt the bones and burn it.

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Just saw this for the first time and I spit out my drink.
I hate to write this, but I have to...kind of. This is like the scenario where the woman keeps going back to the guy that is either cheating on her or beating her. She cant seem to move on.
Guess which one is which?
All kidding aside, I would find a good aluminum block and bump compression. I only run e85, so that isn't an issue. I'd also address wiring issues and not worry about going to a stand alone as that just introduces a ton of other potential wiring issues. Stand alone isn't necessary for what you are doing. Just my opinions.

 

[Corbic]

I'd say fix the issues you have before digging yourself a deeper hole.

Suggestions?