Parts needed to safely run a supercharger

Smarties

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Hi,

I want to know what is really mandatory to run my Paxton supercharger. I will buy in the next few weeks a boost a pump and NGk colder spark plugs.

I have read horror story of destruction of rods, desctruction of the block.

What should be parts that I need to upgrade. Don't tell me to do the whole motor forged cause I don't have the cash to do that.

I'm not looking to make power numbers. I'm looking to go between 610-630 on the dyno.

Oil cooler?
Billet oil pump gears?
Better radiator
170 thermostat
Other parts I have not thinking of
 

Shiken_Feddas

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Keeping your power goals conservative will lessen the need for forged internals. Typically fuel upgrades like a BAP or high flow pump and injectors are needed.

A good tuner is also a must.

I'm not a SC guy, but my turbo setup has been on a stock motor for 2 years.
 
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wakebum2507

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to get 610 out of it to the wheels, you're going to need 93, a BAP, ID1000's, a good tuner, the 3.6 pulley.

if you run the stock pulley (3.8) you should see 580ish to the wheels on 93(which you should be running if you're wanting to stay safe).

or, just leave the car NA. everyone who goes FI will tell you that if you're that scared of torching the motor, or don't have money for a backup plan, then don't do it.

with that being said, I run the 3.6, on 93, tuned safely. I made 581 to the wheels on the stock pulley. should see north of 600 wheel on the smaller pulley, but haven't had a chance to get back to a Dyno.

Good luck, and welcome to the club.
 

wakebum2507

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if you're wanting to keep it really safe and have access to E, get terry to order you one of the Fore systems as well. pretty cheap insurance for 1500$ for the return style system, and can pretty easily make 650 wheel on E safely.
 

manolith

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My car made 620rwhp with the 3.8 pulley and 93 octane and that was a conservative tune.

Ok I would get a bap and keep the Rpm under 7200
 

truebluedevil02

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OP, this is what you need(most has already been listed)

1: Injectors
2: BAP
3: Spark plugs
4: Good tune from a reputable tuner ie. Lund, JPC, AED, BBR
5: Keep the RPMS limited to around 7000 give or take.
6: Get the open filter air intake(worth about 20-25whp and 1 PSI)

If you have all of these then you should be fine. A 3.8" pulley and 91/93 pump gas will get you 600whp +- 20whp. With all that said, if you cant afford to fix it, then don't play the game and stay NA. But with a good tune and a little self control you SHOULD be fine at 600whp, but a bad tank of gas will make your motor go bye bye, so just make sure your getting good, quality fuel(Shell). If your still a little scared, then toss some unleaded race gas or torco octane booster in with each new tank, just for a little added security.
 

beefcake

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at a minimum the bap, a smaller pulley isn't necessarily needed. if you have the funds, the next most important thing, would be skip the bap, and go to a fuel system, even a stage 1 fore system.

we have those very reasonably priced. they can also grow with you down the road.

billet oil pump gears would be next on the list, but if your not ringing out the rpm's, you'll probably be fine on the stockers
 

Smarties

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Well I got already the injectors.

Boost a pump and NGK colder spark plugs are next upgrade to purchase.

I already got a bunch of bolt-ons mods. I plan to install my steeda cai and install it on the paxton blower.

I always put 91 Shell gas. Up here we have access to 94 octane but with 10% ethanol in it. I'll probably stick to 91 Shell cause they don't have in ethanol in it.
 

Smarties

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Oh and what does a Fore stage 1 do? Is it easy to install?

Also is mandatory to change the overflow tank? A few people told me that the one that comes with the kit crack. So it would be pretty cheap.
 
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manolith

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i been using the plastic overflow tank that came with the kit and its holding so far. around 7k miles.
 

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