this seemed like the place to ask, which wire should i be tapping into off of the o2 sensor for the A/F gauge on my o3 cobra. just figured id ask from those who know...
What are the best 2 gauges for terminator?
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Oil and Fuel if either one goes to zero your F**ked so I feel these two are the most important--also go with electrical sending units for the oil press the little plastic piping on mechanical gauges sux had it on my chevelle
I probably went overboard but I went with;
Dynojet Wide-band AF guage. Silver type that matches the rest of my Autometer Ultralite guages.
Fuel Pressure 0-100psi, electric full sweep
Vacume-Boost 30in-20psi
Exhaust gas pyrometer 0-1400 degree
And I would like to add an oil pressure guage 0-100, but I may try something a little different. A second fuel pressure sender as an oil pressure sender. With a small toggle switch to select which sender the fuel pressure guage sees. I would also dissasemble the guage itself and install a very tiny LED to show that it is set to "oil".
Dynojet Wide-band AF guage. Silver type that matches the rest of my Autometer Ultralite guages.
Fuel Pressure 0-100psi, electric full sweep
Vacume-Boost 30in-20psi
Exhaust gas pyrometer 0-1400 degree
And I would like to add an oil pressure guage 0-100, but I may try something a little different. A second fuel pressure sender as an oil pressure sender. With a small toggle switch to select which sender the fuel pressure guage sees. I would also dissasemble the guage itself and install a very tiny LED to show that it is set to "oil".
Friendchicken
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Boost tells you nothing as far as I am concerned. Use the stock one with an overlay, but don't waste money on it if you have to pick 2. Oil pressure, Fuel Pressure generally would be my first picks, but in the case of a custom tuned supercharged engine, I would vote for wide A/F. You put in the wrong gas, or you run through the mountains with a sea-level tune... neither Boost or Oil will save you.
The only way to really tell you which 2 are priorities is figuring out which part would be more likely to fail based on your use of the car.
If you track the car, Pyro and Oil might be more valuable. If you drag race, Fuel pressure and A/F might be more useful.
Obvioulsy each on of these sensors could catch a serious issue, but you have to prioritize. If you are highly modded or use your car for heavy duty, go ahead and recreate the kockpit of a 747.
My vote based on my application is Fuel Pressure and Wide A/F
The only way to really tell you which 2 are priorities is figuring out which part would be more likely to fail based on your use of the car.
If you track the car, Pyro and Oil might be more valuable. If you drag race, Fuel pressure and A/F might be more useful.
Obvioulsy each on of these sensors could catch a serious issue, but you have to prioritize. If you are highly modded or use your car for heavy duty, go ahead and recreate the kockpit of a 747.
My vote based on my application is Fuel Pressure and Wide A/F
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Glad I used the search button, I was gonna ask the same question!!
Bob Cosby said:
I have these three on my 96 along with fuel pressure. I will be getting the oil pressure/oil temp, water temp/ differential temp, fuel pressure and A?F on the 04 soon. Has anyone been able to modify the oil or temp guages in any of the Cobras 96-04 to be useable? If so post up please. I am wrestling with making them useful to save space and $ for new guages.
i went with a dynojet wideband, fuel pressure, oil pressure, and boost/vacuum. if i had to pick two, it'd be the wideband and fuel pressure.
Where does the Autometer A/F gauge hook connect? I know that it is a weak reading but it would give some indication as to how the ratio is looking. I am just unsure where it would connect.
~Darren
~Darren
The purple lead goes to the stock signal lead (white) blasck lead to ground and the red lead to switched power.
Where do I pick the white lead up - under the dash? Near the computer?
~Darren
~Darren
This is the guage pod i am getting.......putting a/f and voltage
http://www.speedofsoundllc.com/1994-2004MustangPod.html
http://www.speedofsoundllc.com/1994-2004MustangPod.html
Search for the EEC pinout map and pick up the signal from the EEC connector harness.
OMI, thats a tie between Air/Fuel & Fuel Pressure. They are just important.
I'm doing A/F (through my PLX wideband) and intercooler coolant temp. (It gets d@mn hot here!)
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FlaSeaDude said:I'm doing A/F (through my PLX wideband) and intercooler coolant temp. (It gets d@mn hot here!)
Hey FlaSeaDude, I hooked up an autometer A/F gauge & it just gives a constant lean reading, so I am researching converting to a WB O2 sensor. I saw the PLX unit & it looks good. How hard was it to hook up? Other than getting the stock sensor out & unplugged, were there any hassles with wiring or additional pieces needed besides the kit?
If I don't hear back in htis thread, I will send you a PM.
side question:
If you have an narrow air/fuel now, can you tap into that wiring with a wideband and change out the narrow display gauge for a wide display? Or do you have to completely remove the narrow and all wiring to ECM and add the bung to exhaust.
Oh and I hope this helps:
Pin, Circuit, Circuit Function
83, 264 (WH/LB), Idle air control valve (IAC) (9F715), control
59, – not used
84, 970 (DG/WH), Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor (7M101)
60, 74 (GY/LB), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #11 (9F472), input
85, 282 (DB/OG), Camshaft position sensor (6B288), input
61, 393 (VT/LG), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #22 (9G444), input
86, 439 (TN/LG), A/C pressure switch, signal
62, 791 (RD/PK), Fuel tank pressure transducer sensor (9C968)
87, 94 (RD/BK), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #21 (9F472), input
** I chose the one in bold, I believe that measures the left side which is the lean side, I think **
If you have an narrow air/fuel now, can you tap into that wiring with a wideband and change out the narrow display gauge for a wide display? Or do you have to completely remove the narrow and all wiring to ECM and add the bung to exhaust.
Oh and I hope this helps:
Pin, Circuit, Circuit Function
83, 264 (WH/LB), Idle air control valve (IAC) (9F715), control
59, – not used
84, 970 (DG/WH), Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor (7M101)
60, 74 (GY/LB), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #11 (9F472), input
85, 282 (DB/OG), Camshaft position sensor (6B288), input
61, 393 (VT/LG), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #22 (9G444), input
86, 439 (TN/LG), A/C pressure switch, signal
62, 791 (RD/PK), Fuel tank pressure transducer sensor (9C968)
87, 94 (RD/BK), Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) #21 (9F472), input
** I chose the one in bold, I believe that measures the left side which is the lean side, I think **
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If you are only getting 2 get boost and a Wideband A/F gauge.
I am personally running the following
- Boost/Vac 30psi electric full sweep
- Fuel Pressure 100psi electric full sweep
- Wideband A/F gauge (AEM) which has both an analog and a digital readout.
The dynojet wideband is nice but it is only analog and is hard to tell what the exact reading is. However they are extremely accurate.
I am personally running the following
- Boost/Vac 30psi electric full sweep
- Fuel Pressure 100psi electric full sweep
- Wideband A/F gauge (AEM) which has both an analog and a digital readout.
The dynojet wideband is nice but it is only analog and is hard to tell what the exact reading is. However they are extremely accurate.
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i have 5: fuel pressure, oil pressure, boost, water temp and wms wide band. i figured that after blowing one motor that it might be a good idea.
not the best pic but you get the idea
not the best pic but you get the idea
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supercobra506 said:
You don't happen to have any night pictures do you?
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