<HR style="COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Thought I'd share the write-up one of our vendors, Jeff @ Central Texas Performance, did on the install and dyno of one of our Nitrous Outlet 2011+ Mustang GT 5.0 Coyote Nitrous Plate Systems. This was a 100hp shot, netting 136HP.
Central Texas Performance
I know it took a little while but here are the pics I mentioned. I will add in a few comments on how things went and what were the more challenging steps. Also, if anyone has any questions please feel free.
I want to start off by saying thanks to Lindsey Meek for letting me keep her car long enough to do all of the testing on it as well as her participation in the up coming track day for the rest of the testing.
This is the car we installed the kit on. It is a 2011 GT manual with lowering springs as its only mod. Since the kit was installed, the owner has changed wheels and installed a sway bar relocation bracket so that we can run big and littles at the track this coming weekend. I will include a list of mods after the pics with the Dyno sheet.
You can see that once the kit is installed it is barely noticeable. I say this not to imply that hiding it was the idea, but because the kit fit so well with all of the stock parts that it blends right in. This was a plus for Lindsey since she likes the somewhat blacked out sleeper look.
Here is a similar shot with the engine cover removed so that you can see the details of the installation. The kit came with the N20 and Fuel solenoids attached to the mounting plate ready to go. The purge that we purchased was added before installation. A tip would be after test fitting be sure to attach the nitrous and fuel feed lines before installing the solenoids. Once the throttle body bolts go in which hold the solenoid mounting plate there will be little room to tighten the lines. The hard lines coming from the solenoids to the plate however can be installed after the two have been mounted. I started by attaching them to the solenoids, sliding in the jets, then attaching them to the plate. We used the 100 shot jets.
A side shot with the cover installed. No modification to the cover is required.
Same shot with the cover removed. You can see how the system pulls its fuel from the rail. The kit comes with an adapter that goes inline where the cars fuel line meets the fuel rail feed line. This is - before - the rail divides to each bank. Since it is before the division of the two rails the bank to bank fueling is not changed. Since the coyote platform is a closed loop wide band controlled system I expected the system to compensate for the added fuel of the wet shot returning it to the commanded air fuel, however I didn't expect it to do it as well as it did. I think the PCM was able to do this due to the even distribution of the nitrous and fuel. Typically when using a nozzle style system the distribution of the added fuel and nitrous is not going to be ideal. It can be done well and on most older systems work very well, however on the new 5.0s if the fuel and nitrous is not very well distributed one cylinder can end up leaner or richer than the others. I think the design of this particular plate system solves this problem.
Close up
Another engine shot
![click](http://[URL="http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=b117ca3a3dae5cb1f2217d057f4297a3&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svtperformance.com%2Fforums%2F2011-2014-mustangs-354%2F931844-nitrous-outlet-plate-kit-wet-vs-jms-progressive-dry-3.html&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs1013.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FCTPerformance%2Fmedia%2FIMG_2826.jpg.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svtperformance.com%2Fforums%2Fsearch.php%3Fsearchid%3D12845324"][IMG]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af256/CTPerformance/IMG_2826.jpg)
This is a shot showing where we routed the nitrous feed line. It comes through the frame rail along side of the fuel lines and continues all the way to the back of the car. Above the differential there is a black rubber grommet that we chose to modify instead of drilling into the car. Other than the bottle mounting bracket and blow down there was no drilling required. We routed the progressive controller wires through the sound tube opening on the firewall and with a little work manage to make it look factory and completely hidden.
Console shot
![click](http://[URL="http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=b117ca3a3dae5cb1f2217d057f4297a3&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svtperformance.com%2Fforums%2F2011-2014-mustangs-354%2F931844-nitrous-outlet-plate-kit-wet-vs-jms-progressive-dry-3.html&out=http%3A%2F%2Fs1013.photobucket.com%2Fuser%2FCTPerformance%2Fmedia%2FIMG_2833.jpg.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svtperformance.com%2Fforums%2Fsearch.php%3Fsearchid%3D12845324"][IMG]http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/af256/CTPerformance/IMG_2833.jpg)
Lindsey learning how to program the system.
Here is the dyno sheet and why it is the way it is.
1. The reason why the car was not spun to 7k plus is because the stock pull was done with the car completely stock. That means with the stock speed limiter in place (145). The speed limiter was not removed for the nitrous pull although I did let out a little early so we wouldn't hit it. This was done because we wanted the most accurate data we could get on how this system would work on a completely stock car.
2. For the nitrous pull, the only tune changes were -2 degrees of timing. There were no changes made to the torque tables, MAF transfer, base fuel, or anything else. The request was to see how well it worked on something as stock as possible. I felt that pulling 2 degrees was a safety item.
3. After this initial testing I did however remove the speed limiter for this weekend at the track. The nitrous will be turning off at 6400 for this weekend. Once we get some accurate track data we will make many more changes in the tune. I think this kit will work even better with some dyno time and tune tweaks.
4. Notice on the nitrous pull that instead of going lean when the nitrous comes in the pull went slightly rich. This is due to the time it takes the computer to correct for the added fuel. I personally don't have an issue with this on a daily driver or weekend racer. If it was a purpose built race car or someone spraying a huge amount of nitrous and fuel it would be something that needs to be addressed or it could lead to spark blow out. I also think that it could be easily corrected with some tuning and a few tweaks to the progressive controller.
We will post time slips from this up coming track day. The driver will be Lindsey's husband since he already has a 10s new coyote. She will be making her first few passes this weekend as well, but it will be NA and just for her to get some seat time until she is comfortable with the car. She just bought it a few weeks ago.
Awesome job Jeff, looking forward to some numbers from the track.- John @ Nitrous Outlet
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