5w-50 oils

DaFreak

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Guys,

I can't find the pennzoil platinum 5w-50 anywhere. I am ready for an oil change and have ordered the blackstone test kit but now trying to figure out which way to go. What do you think about the other pennzoil weights? Should I just sign up for Amsoil memberships and order from them?

Thanks for the help,

DaFreak
 

shadyninja

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G Should I just sign up for Amsoil memberships and order from them?

Thanks for the help,

DaFreak

There is a Amsoil Distribution center in Portland, so if you were near there you could open a account and pick up from there , if not you are only 1 day on the UPS truck from it.
 
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Brutal Metal

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That test doesn't mean shit ether. Because just about all your wear is at start up. So one guy starts his car and drives 3K and then does a test. His oil will be much clearer and show less wear then a guy that starts his 3 or 4 times a day.
That statement is a Bit Harsh, those labs do great wotk and just about every damm element in the periodic table is analyzed! They is NO Harm sending out an oil sample! Just put some Amsoil in the crankcase and sleep peacefully!
 

me32

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Guys,

I can't find the pennzoil platinum 5w-50 anywhere. I am ready for an oil change and have ordered the blackstone test kit but now trying to figure out which way to go. What do you think about the other pennzoil weights? Should I just sign up for Amsoil memberships and order from them?

Thanks for the help,

DaFreak

you might be able to order pennzoil platinum 5w-50 at a local parts store
 

DaFreak

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Good point 32. I did see that many of the oil change shops around carry the 5w-50. Maybe I'll pop in and see what they can do.

DaFreak
 

UnleashedBeast

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Beast:

Dennis70Mach received his oil analysis from Oil Analyzers and posted the results in post # 40 here. Oil sample is Motorcraft 5W50 from an 08 GT500 after 1500 to 2000 miles.

Tiny Metal Specs in Engine Oil? - Team Shelby - Page 2

The Viscosity was already down to 14.6 cSt @ 100 degrees, which is equivalent to 40 grade. One concern the lab had was the Infrared Oxidation of 45, which the lab reports is in the critical range. I have not seen this parameter in an oil analysis, but I do know that oil oxidation is bad. Do you know what this is and what it means?

Yeah, the guys at Team Shelby are chasing their tails trying to understand something very simple, but I do understand how someone could be puzzled thinking about a liquid, in this case a lubricant, oxidizing. To make it simple, it's very much the same way iron changes it's chemical properties when oxygen reacts with it. When oxygen reacts with the impurities commonly found in group II and group III base stocks, the base oil molecules are changing their properties. Again, much like iron, the base oil molecules are "rusting" and breaking down. The reason why you don't have this problem with true 100% synthetics is because there are no impurities in the formulation. Most oil degradation you read about concerns the additives in the oil that protect an engine from wear and the detergents that clean. When the detergents and additives are gone, the oil is no longer usable, and must be changed. Have you ever heard someone say, the base stock itself is always usable, but the additives (TBN, ZDDP) are what depletes during extended use thus requiring an oil change. Well, that's not 100% true, and in this case...oxidation destroys the base stock itself.

Once again, we see FoMoCo's 5W-50 shearing to a 40 weight, and this time at only 2,000 miles. What else can I say friends, don't refrain from using this oil, RUN away from this oil. We've proven time and time again, it's inferior to other offerings in this market.
 

6-Speed

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Good explanation ... better than what I read over on BITOG. Degradation of the actual base stock seems like an important characteristic to test for in an oil analysis, but I haven't seen oxidation measured in a Blackstone UOA.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Good explanation ... better than what I read over on BITOG. Degradation of the actual base stock seems like an important characteristic to test for in an oil analysis, but I haven't seen oxidation measured in a Blackstone UOA.

and you won't....that's a Polaris (OAI) thing.

;-)

Sometimes the guys at BITOG complicate things that could be made so easy for everyone.
 
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Ray Lucca

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Looks like our current best 5W/50 choice is the Redline. Should be back available in Ca. next week. I got my free Dealer change yesterday with the M. Craft 5W/50 at 300 miles. [Car was a 11/08 build, and bought new 2 weeks ago at 105 miles. It may or may not have had a change at the dealer in the last 2 years] I'll change it again at about 1300-1500 miles. By then all of the reports should be in. Appreciate all of the info...
 

me32

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Looks like our current best 5W/50 choice is the Redline. Should be back available in Ca. next week. I got my free Dealer change yesterday with the M. Craft 5W/50 at 300 miles. [Car was a 11/08 build, and bought new 2 weeks ago at 105 miles. It may or may not have had a change at the dealer in the last 2 years] I'll change it again at about 1300-1500 miles. By then all of the reports should be in. Appreciate all of the info...

Sounds good keep use in formed
 

UnleashedBeast

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I don't recommend using a racing oil in any daily or occasional street driven car. Racing oils do not have as much additive content (TBN) and was formulated to be changed frequently. Rule of thumb, if you drive your car to the track, use passenger car/street oil. If you trailer the car to the track, then you can use racing oils.
 

DaFreak

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No new test here but I did want to report that I found 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-50 for $44.99 (included shipping) on amazon (or was it ebay :shrug:). I am planning to add an additional .5 quarts of MotorCraft that I have left over from the last change.

What do you think of this? Will it skew the test results? I plan to do the change next weekend so maybe you'll change my mind:??:

DaFreak
 

PistolWhip

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I sent my factory fill out to Blackstone, just waiting on the details. When they send me a new kit, I'll send out some virgin Red Line.
 

vankuen

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Thanks guys for doing the leg work for many of us.

I just picked up a 2011 to replace my 2009, and so I wanted to check in here again to see what sort of new information there was on these cars.

Knowing I'll be changing the oil again soon for the post break-in this thread is good timing.

I was going to have the dealer just put in their motorcraft stuff, but perhaps now I'll go with Castrol or Amsoil.
 

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