dyno graphs single turbo kit vs ysi s/c

CPRsm

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It's like your damned if you do, and your damned if you don't, lol. I have not engaged whatsoever, it is a thread comparing the kits and the kits pricing. It's a fair question to ask, when saying that the $7300 kit is comparable to my $5549 kit.

My $5549 kit comes with everything you need to install on a car and go and be done, assuming you have a handheld That includes tuning as well. $1850 is roughly a 34% difference in pricing. Now, add $1100 in fuel upgrades and we'll say $400 for a tune, you are at $8800. That's a $3251 difference. With my math, that's not "about the same"
Our kit also comes with a kmember, headers, tubular core support and mid pipe. That's not including anything Texas stang mentioned. None is required. No one has ever seen me say that any of it was. Paxton is cheaper base vs base. All I have ever said is IF you are looking at going that route and buying all that anyways, you aren't saving thousands in the long run. That's what makes it "about the same."
 

blackbeast12

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I think the real difference in the the 2 kits depends on what kind of bottom end your engine has. Stock bottom ends will be safer with a supercharger especially a centri type. forged bottom ends make best use of a turbo boost and power. The ease of install of s/c and the worry free operation favors the stock block car. However on a forged block, its so much easier to make a 1000 + hp with a turbo!


Cprsm, whats the % of customers with stock blocks that buy your kit compared to forged?
 

gstboy69

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Interested in first hand experience/ knowledge of this kit also?

I have heard many good things about the On3 kit.
And much better price 3,739.00

I have plenty of money to buy the ID1000 and PowerMAX FuelMAX V2 • • Plug & Play (Single) Fuel Pump.
 

90goldtsiawd

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I think the real difference in the the 2 kits depends on what kind of bottom end your engine has. Stock bottom ends will be safer with a supercharger especially a centri type. forged bottom ends make best use of a turbo boost and power. The ease of install of s/c and the worry free operation favors the stock block car. However on a forged block, its so much easier to make a 1000 + hp with a turbo!


Cprsm, whats the % of customers with stock blocks that buy your kit compared to forged?

Totally untrue. Both power adders can melt a stock motor. Turbo kit would be better for stretching the life on a stocker as a turbo as same power output puts less stress on the motor.
 

stretchb

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its the one I have went the fastest with.

although I will be installing the Paxton on my coyote swap coupe (unless I sell it ).
 

CPRsm

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I think the real difference in the the 2 kits depends on what kind of bottom end your engine has. Stock bottom ends will be safer with a supercharger especially a centri type. forged bottom ends make best use of a turbo boost and power. The ease of install of s/c and the worry free operation favors the stock block car. However on a forged block, its so much easier to make a 1000 + hp with a turbo!


Cprsm, whats the % of customers with stock blocks that buy your kit compared to forged?
We only have 3 three guys w stock engines not doing an engine in the immediate future. Everyone else is 1000rwhp minimum. Probably 40% are sleeved or getting sleeves.

A tune or pure power can kill an engine with either power adder. Generally a turbo engine can be pushed farther, safer. You don't spin a turbo engine to 7500 to make power. The back pressure in the exhaust, helps the rods and rod bolts during the exhaust stroke. Blowers and nitrous use scavenging which gives the piston no push back and is harder on rods and rod bolts. Also needing to make less HP at the flywheel to make the same rwhp, the turbo engine will live longer at the same rwhp mark.
 

notchy444

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This ^

Way less stress on the engine with a turbo kit at 600+ hp vs a supercharged 600+hp car. The stock rods are the weak point. Seems like the stock motor doesn't like anything over 580-600 torque with a supercharger at the wheels. with a turbo I think it would last a lot longer then 2 weeks :p

IMG_2471_zpsbf61e2a3.jpg
 

JUIC3D

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Interesting thread.

I'm curious to see my results/impressions going from a consistent low 10 sec car on the nitrous to whatever in the hell the car does with twin turbos.. we shall see.

I think centris and autos go together much better than centris and stick shifted cars.

I'm a stick shift guy at heart so it was a no brainer for me when I wanted to go the next level. Turbos all the way.
 

mastwolf

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I'm spending nothing compared to a turbo kit.. Also a 600hp 10 second car isn't boring to someone that hasn't ever been in a fast car. My car with bolt ons was the fastest I've ever went. I don't have many friends with fast cars and this is my first time around making something quick. I'm being realistic here. You can't really go much above 600hp without some heavy work to the engine. I did my research and centri just made more sense. It's easier and less work to get it running right. Yes turbo kits are way better for power and run faster. That's a fact. You're also going to pay more for those things. The kit I got saved me $3000 from that $7300 BASE CPR kit. No offense but I'll take my gated Paxton, my 600+hp 500lbs TQ and that $2500. Thank you.

If I had deeper pockets and could build up my engine more...I'd be all over that CPR kit. It's badass. But I don't. To the OP a gated Paxton and a base CPR kit on the dyno graph wouldn't be much different at all .. if any. You would have tons of room to grow on both kits, the only main difference is that $2500+ in your pocket to grow on the Paxton kit from the get go. With that being said if you wanted to grow with either kit from that point your going to have to spend a shit load anyway regardless. It is what it is.

There are ALOT of people north of 600hp without heavy work to the engine. Also, a gated Paxton or any Centri might look similar on the dyno (with the centri needing more boost) but those intake temps are going through the roof and you will notice it at the big end of the track. Your the perfect example of some one a paxton is good for. Mostly stock car, 600rwhp dyno graph, and your good to go. Turbo kits tend to find themselves on more serious cars....some with more money into the car that both a paxton kit and any turbo kit combined.


Both can be made fast, but one is going to need some extra stuff, but thats perfect if your not into that kinda of thing. I dont try and convert paxton cars I tune over to a turbo kit, cause there mostly street cars that have a bolt on paxton kit. They both have there place....one is just boring i guess lol
 

slagburn

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The on3 kit is currently whooping the old whipple 2.9.. it's a bit trickier out of the hole though.
 

kenny7277

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The on3 kit seems to be building some steam. Larry, what were inlet temps at say 900rwhp at the end of the 1/4 mile?

I started with a Whipple 2.3, then Stage II Procharger with F1A, now CPR turbo. Was on the list for Fluid but got impatient. The procharger inlet temps at 16# were 275+ at 1320'. Bought a custom intercooler and never made the track before I went turbo. CPR a2w inlet temps only rise 8-10* at 1320' with ambient water. Still haven't run ice.
 

beefcake

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How many 8 second Paxton/vortech cars are there? Serious question. Anyone know?

I'm assuming we are talking coyote since we are in the coyote forum. I can't say the exact number, but I know mine is. So, at least 1. In the 9's, more than I can count.

How many CPR cars in the 8's or even 9's? Serious question.
 

TexasStang4585

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I'm willing to put money on it that there will be more 8 sec CPR coyotes than Paxton/Vortech coyotes in the up coming months or at least one that run's faster than 8.75. :pop:
 

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